Just a speck in the vast Pacific Ocean, it would be easy to feel remote here on Norfolk Island. But enveloped by the island’s tall eponymous pines, and embraced by the friendly community spirit, I soon forget the world beyond this small Australian territory.
This is a place where the number plates just count up from 1 and none of them have more than four digits. When I ask local guide Rachel Borg who has the number 1 license plate, she just replies, “Sophie”. It’s an island where people are known by their first names. Surnames become a bit tricky because so many people share just a few main ones – such as Buffett, Quintal, and Christian – the names of those original Bounty mutineers who settled on Pitcairn Island in 1790, plus a few who arrived soon after.
The story of the Mutiny of the Bounty, the trials and tribulations of the Pitcairn Islands, and the subsequent move to Norfolk Island in 1856 are an important part of the history here. As are the two convict eras before that, when one of the world’s most hellish prisons was perched on the edge of one of the world’s most beautiful islands. Perhaps the true punishment for the convicts was being able to see this lush Pacific treasure, but never being able to appreciate it.
The remains of the original convict settlement are now part of a World Heritage Site and are a must-visit on the island, with four museums doing a good job of telling the story. They include artefacts from HMS Sirius, the flagship of the First Fleet that was a critical part of Britain’s early Sydney settlement until it was wrecked just metres off the coast of Norfolk Island… at a spot where local surfers now catch waves over some of its remains.
There was a time when the history from centuries past was the main attraction here but now it’s things like the surf that are breaking preconceptions and changing the tide. Younger visitors are attracted by the fishing, which is so bountiful that locals often use several hooks at once to save time; the snorkelling and diving, which is not as spectacular as the Great Barrier Reef but has water clarity as good as the best spots in the Pacific; and the hiking through the national park that covers 14 per cent of the island. One day, when 21-year-old local Lenny Buffett is showing me a few of his favourite spots, he tells me, “if you get bored here, then you’ve got no imagination”.
Of course, he’s right, but you also don’t need to do much imagining – so much is right before your eyes. The soaring seabirds; the epic views from the mountaintops; the dramatic cliffs above the sparkling water. Norfolk Island is the biggest small island I have ever been to. Only 8 kilometres by 5 kilometres, I foolishly thought it was somewhere you could walk around, but thankfully I have a rental car to explore all the spots the tour buses can’t go (many accommodation options include a car as part of the package).
It doesn’t take long until you relax into the slow pace of life and wave to each person as you drive past, bumping into best friends you made the day before, and wondering if you could move here permanently. There’s no need to carry keys because you leave everything unlocked, children run around at the beach without a care, and I even hear a lost property announcement on the radio that a black hat had been found at the roundabout.
But don’t mistake quaint for backward. A new generation of islanders is opening innovative shops and restaurants, blending local resources with their experiences overseas or on the mainland. A range of dining options from comfortable breakfasts to high-end (but very affordable) restaurants mean you’ll never go hungry, while there’s also a winery, a craft brewery, and many other interesting businesses that I’ll write more about soon.
Even after five days on the island, I find myself running out of time to do all the things I wanted. I’ve taken a tour to see author Colleen McCullough’s house, an elaborately decorated home full of art and artefacts that she collected from across the world; I’ve had a magnificent high tea on the clifftop lawns at Forrester Court; and I’ve seen the 360-degree painting called Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama that vividly tells the early history of the island’s founding.
But I haven’t walked the stunning Bridle Track trail up to Palm Glen; I haven’t had a game of golf at the scenic course tucked between beaches and the historic Government House; and, most regretfully, I haven’t had a chance to truly explore the Polynesian heritage that’s found here (a result of descendants from the original British fathers and Tahitian mothers).
The locals embrace their quirks and are proud of their uniqueness. On the first day, Rachel the tour guide forewarned me that “if Norfolk Island’s right for you, it’ll get under your skin”. Turns out being right out here is right for a lot of people.
WHAT TO DO:
– Explore the World Heritage Site convict ruins at the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale Historic Area
– Take a tour of the fascinating home of author Colleen McCullough
– Go hiking on one of the trails in Norfolk Island National Park
– Find the best break for some surfing, or head to gentler waters for swimming and snorkelling
WHERE TO EAT:
– For a casual breakfast or lunch, join the locals at the friendly Olive Cafe
– With cosy interiors or lovely garden seating, Hilli Restaurant is great for lunch or dinner
– And for a special dinner, the relatively new Homestead is one of the best restaurants on the island
WHERE TO STAY:
– With 55 rooms and on-site dining, Governor’s Lodge offers comfortable and convenient accommodation
– The views over Kingston to the water is one of the highlights of Coast, which has a range of rooms
– If you would like a whole home to yourself, Hunky’s House at Tintoela is one of the nicest on the island