An ‘azamazing’ view of the Mediterranean: An Azamara Onward review

I think about this as we near the French city of Marseille on board Azamara Onward, a new ship from the destination-focused Azamara cruise line. Marseille has long been considered a relatively rough city but, right now, it’s just after sunrise and the calm waters are glistening in the morning light. The remnants of historic fortresses still appear to stand guard on the rocky islands dotted along the approach, while the city itself glows orange, with the early rays of the day warming churches, palaces and museums perched along the seafront. And I’m up on deck in the refreshing morning air, a slight taste of salt blowing in my face, taking in the whole stunning panorama.

This feeling is a highlight of Mediterranean cruising – which is well and truly back.

The Azamara Onward pulls into Marseilles port directly in front of the city’s main cathedral, and passengers begin to head down the gangway to explore the city. Buses are waiting to take some people on tours, but it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the old town, where others choose to start their own independent visits. As I’m shown around – past the historic marina, through the narrow streets of cafes and street art, and up to the imposing basilica of Notre-Dame atop a 150-metre-high hill – I realise that no matter what a destination’s reputation, you can always be surprised. Marseille does not appear to be as gritty as often described. Perhaps it’s there and I would find it if I dug deeper, but all I discover in one day is a grand city of France full of magnificent architecture and lively culture.

Azamara has some of the longest stays in port of any cruise line, and for that I’m grateful. But no cruise in the Mediterranean will ever have enough time to really get to know a destination. The trade-off, though, is also one of the biggest joys of travelling by ship through Europe’s most famous waterway – it’s so easy to experience the vibrancy and variety of the continent.

One day you’re having coffee in France, the next you’re sipping Aperol spritzes in Italy. There’s octopus in Athens, arancini in Sicily and baklava in Istanbul. On the same trip, you’re able to stand among the masterpiece of La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, try your hand at roulette in the opulent casino of Monte Carlo, and see where gladiators once duelled at the Colosseum in Rome. And, of course, you’re doing it all with the luxury of only unpacking once.

Spending a few days on the Azamara Onward (and actually using the wardrobe in my stateroom – something I never do in hotels), I try to understand what has changed since the pandemic. As we all well know, cruising was one of the first industries to be hit by COVID-19 and one of the last to bounce back, but here along the coast of the Mediterranean, recovery is no longer off on the horizon. Things are almost back to normal. 

To achieve this, most cruise companies will require you to be fully vaccinated (including a booster shot when eligible) and receive a negative test result before boarding (the exact details differ slightly by cruise line). The crew will also be fully vaccinated and have regular tests. This creates somewhat of a ‘bubble’ on board, where passengers have a degree of confidence at the start of a cruise. For this reason, masks are no longer mandatory for passengers – and I see very few people wearing them on my trip. (The crew do have to continue to wear them for now.) Otherwise, there are no other restrictions on board: no social distancing, no density requirements and self-service at the buffets.

Even going onshore feels relaxed… and, dare I say it, normal. Pandemic restrictions have largely been dropped in Europe and there’s no need to do paperwork or pre-arrival tests in most Mediterranean countries. Mask rules still vary slightly by country, but most don’t require them except in situations like public transport and supermarkets. From my experience, the few countries that do still require masks in all indoor settings are the exceptions, and it’s too easy to fall into a comfortable pre-Covid routine until you arrive in those destinations.

When the last day of the Azamara cruise comes around, I find myself up on deck again, relaxed with a cocktail in hand, the stress of the pandemic blown away in the wind. We’ve been to four countries in the past four days and shopped at markets in Spain, visited churches in France, tasted wine in Italy and strolled the streets of Monaco. And the most amazing thing – how easy it has all been. It wasn’t so long ago that going to a single country would’ve been a Herculean effort, and now we’re sailing between them like Argonauts.

The Mediterranean is truly open again and the cruise ships are almost back to normal. For many regular cruise travellers, it’s reassuring to be interacting with the same (vaccinated and tested) staff for the whole trip. But irrespective of that, it’s nice to be back on the water, enjoying the views on approach of those dazzling destinations with so much to discover.