In the pool in front of me, a mermaid swims in the water, tail flapping and water splashing. It would be a strange sight anywhere but here on Norfolk Island, where the descendants of 18th-century British sailors established a community in the remote Pacific Ocean. But here on this isolated outpost, a mermaid seems both eerie and apt.
Today, the mermaid is a siren call to the crowd at the island’s Sunset Bar, where there are cheers when she is lowered into the pool by the owner Les Quintal.
What’s extraordinary is that the aquatic pageantry is impromptu – just a local who wanted to swim in her mermaid costume. And it seems so natural here, where the Sunset Bar is actually Les’s house, transforming into one of Norfolk Island’s best venues several nights a week. On the evening I visit, there’s another performance by musician Rick Robertson, who has toured the world but is still happy to pull out his saxophone for his home crowd.
Until recently, there was very little change on Norfolk Island, because very little needed to change. About 1500 kilometres from the mainland, this small Australian territory learned to be self-sufficient. Young islanders would often go away for decades and return when they were older, content to slip back into the same way of life they left. But now they are coming back sooner and, like Rick, bringing their experiences of the wider world with them.
One of the first businesses you’ll see when you arrive in Norfolk Island is Slick & Sons, the butcher across the road from the airport. It was established more than 40 years ago by Norm ‘Slick’ Buffett but is now run by his son, Peter Buffett, who moved back from Melbourne a few years ago. You’ll still get fresh local meat, but Peter and his husband Kyle Czech have also revamped the store with new imported food items like condiments and chocolate.
“We came back here and said there’s no reason why, just because Norfolk’s remote, it doesn’t mean you don’t have access to really good products,” Peter tells me. “And we discovered that people are happy to pay a bit more for a product that is genuinely better and tastier.”
A bit further down the main road towards town you’ll find Prinke Eco Store, opened by three friends (Claire Quintal, Sharyn Quintal, and Leanne Webb) who wanted to offer goods that were environmentally friendly. On a small island where the waste needs to be taken offshore, reducing single-use plastic should be an imperative – but for a long time, that was more difficult because it was hard to buy sustainable products.
“There are only a small number of importers and they dominate the market, so if you can’t influence what they’re bringing in, you can’t control what you’re purchasing,” Claire explains.
In essence, by opening the store, they are helping to create the Norfolk Island that they want to live in, rather than being constrained by how it’s been for generations. They offer food products like rice and pasta from large jars so customers bring their own containers, they sell machine-washable food wraps that can be reused, and you’ll get your takeaway coffee in a ceramic mug (which is easy to return because the island is so compact).
On the main shopping street of Norfolk Island, the businesses still sport the names of their founders (first names, of course, because there are so few surnames) – shops like Craig’s Knitwear, Frank’s Shoes, Pete’s Place, and Ross’s (with surplus stock of s’s). Think about it for a moment and you’ll realise they’re all male first names, but it’s good to see that’s changed over the years. It may not have a store on the street, but a small business like Platters by Paige is a perfect example of the generational change here.
Paige Christian Adams is just 22 years old but she runs her own business creating lavish food platters as appealing to the eyes as the tongue. She can put together large spreads for big events, or smaller boards for intimate gatherings. If you visit the island, you might consider a clifftop picnic with some of the local products that she can source. (If you don’t want to put your own one together from Slick and Sons and Prinke Eco Store, that is.)
Norfolk Island has long had a reputation as a tourism destination for older people, but that’s not the impression I get. The colonial and convict heritage is just one part of a vibrant community where there’s also a yoga studio and the new Black Anchor Bar, serving modern cocktails and craft beer (although, in typical Norfolk fashion, it’s only open Thursday to Sunday). And, of course, it’s all set amongst the lush mountains, epic coastal cliffs, tall pines, and glorious sandy beaches.
The younger generation here is not just creating the life they want, but the holiday we appreciate. Some people may still try to define Norfolk Island by its turbulent past, but it’s the future which is really creating waves.
WHAT TO EAT:
– You’ll find an excellent range of meat and deli-style products at Slick and Sons, across from the airport
– For sustainable food and drink plus other eco-friendly products, Prinke Eco Store is the place to go
– Consider organising a special food platter for a picnic or event from Platters by Paige
WHERE TO DRINK:
– For a casual outdoor venue (with the possibility of a mermaid), the Sunset Bar is a favourite
– In the centre of town, Black Anchor Bar is a very cool new watering hole
WHERE TO STAY:
– With 55 rooms and on-site dining, Governor’s Lodge offers comfortable and convenient accommodation
– The views over Kingston to the water is one of the highlights of Coast, which has a range of rooms
– If you would like a whole home to yourself, Hunky’s House at Tintoela is one of the nicest on the island
