Bali has always had an admirable ability to reinvent itself after hard times. And it seems, the Island of the Gods has done it again.
Not letting a pandemic get in the way of progress, the Balinese people have used the past two and half years to drill down and tap into the newest wave of tourism trends. Sustainability, authenticity and connection are all high on the list for every new resort, restaurant, boutique and tour company across the islands. And as travellers flock back to these happy shores, something tells me it’s going to be the best thing that’s ever happened to the region.
I want to preface this story with two points. One, Bali has been desperately in need of a major rethink around pollution for a very long time. And two, the people of Bali are without a doubt some of the most friendly, genuine people on Earth. The new chapter of Bali’s best offerings unveils silver linings waiting to be discovered with these beautiful people who have been silently building, rethinking and waiting for our return. Here’s what to know, what to expect, what to book and what not to forget.
I’ve got to take my hat off to the big handful of innovations that have emerged out of the tourism rubble. My favourite by far is the Gojek app. Think Uber and Uber Eats, meets scooters meets brilliance. While Bali has always been the destination of a trillion motorbikes, now it is an easily accessible land of scooter-drivers wearing bright green jackets, ready to scoot you anywhere you need for the average price of $1. You book one in exactly the same way as an Uber back home, but it’s a friendly Balinese motorbike driver who turns up with a smile and a spare helmet and drops you to your door. Not only is this hugely exhilarating for those of us who come from Australia’s over-regulated city streets, but it means fewer cars on these skinny streets and faster flowing traffic for getting around. Top tip – Not recommended for airport transfers with suitcases involved.
Next to note is that while Seminyak and Sanur have been sleeping, tiny pockets of creative hotspots have been plugging away, ready to emerge as the newest hip places to stay and play. Within the Canggu region is a buzzing little gem of a beach called Berawa, where the shops, cafes and hotels popping up are at the top of their game.
Nearby, Hotel Sages is a new resort with clean white lines and on-trend archways that will wow the savviest social-media set. But instead of it being ramped up with a million offerings and thumping beats, the allure here is the quiet serenity. Turns out this is what people seek after surviving the stresses and challenges of Covid. Not only can you lounge by the pool, but the clay classes and wellness sessions on offer are all about mindful exploration and slowing down.
Day-trippers can head to brand-new beach club Mari, which is all about sustainability and supporting Balinese cultural origins. Traditional dances, ceremonies and offerings are an everyday ritual here, which is a welcome relief from the old days of Kuta’s chaotic day-clubbing scene.
Dining options in the Canggu area are also digging deep into the new eco ego of Bali with vegan options aplenty and poke bowls on every other corner. Milk & Madu, Cinta, Kong, Sprout, Penny Lane, the Common and Yema Kitchen are all delicious options. The pick of the bunch is Santanera, a Spanish-inspired restaurant overlooking a rice paddy and built as a multi-storey glasshouse dripping with lush vines and local expats with man buns. This is the place to be seen and the place to loosen the belt for the most delicious menu on the island.
Santenera owner Philip Cappelletto said he has spent the pandemic training his staff to be at the top of their game for when the borders open again.
“We wanted to be prepared to provide the best possible experience when the time came,” he said. “Bali is always changing and tourists are always wanting the next best thing. We recognise that there is a desire now for ethical tourism and we are doing our best to cater for that. Using local produce, hiring all local staff, the building materials are all ethically sourced… It’s about that attention to detail, leaving a minimal footprint but a maximum impression.”
Now, I’m not claiming the Bintang singlets and wooden penis keyrings are things of the past; they’re still in full swing. But dotted in among them are new retailers and they are making waves. Clothing designers are using recycled fishing nets, watches are made from sustainable wood (Kate Wood), local designers and homewares outlets are spruiking plastic-free products and glass straws and profits are donated to environmental programs. Don’t miss Kim Soo, Bungalow Living, Amalfi Moon or Temple and Shrine.
Then there’s the spa scene. It’s not just about grabbing a foot massage on the go or a traditional Thai massage for a bargain price nowadays. The wellness way of life in Bali is booming – and I am not complaining. Spa menus now offer a selection of healing therapies ranging from chakra therapy to tantric yoga sessions (not what you’re thinking!) to Balinese spices healing massages. This is the next level of reconnecting with your body, mind and soul. Sound healing and ecstatic dance are now on offer alongside yoga classes, and full-moon parties and nightclubs are now filled with happy vegans drinking jamu juice (think turmeric, ginger, dragon fruit and lime) and getting high on life, not mushrooms. Some of the best of the spas and wellness centres are Amo and Desa Seni, both in the Canggu area.
It’s handy to know that most Balinese use WhatsApp and direct messaging on Instagram to communicate now – including hotel receptions and reservations. Gone are the days of websites, emails, text and phone call. So, be sure to have them ready to roll, alongside your Gojek and PeduliLindungi, which is the one that tracks your location for Covid-related communications and results of your PCR tests after arrival. You’ll need it to get past customs, so I suggest downloading this one and completing your profile information prior to take-off.
The funny thing about the new face of Bali’s tourism? It’s actually more like the old original Bali than ever before. After all, I fell in love with Bali back when it was simple, genuine, authentic and embracing all things happy and free, especially the warm-hearted people. It was a welcome reminder of this when I thanked my Gojek scooter driver for my ride and offered him the equivalent of $2 for his fee. He smiled and tried to hand me back the 50 cents change in return. One thing is for certain, no matter what comes and goes in Bali, the warm and gentle spirit of the people remains strong.
Take me there
Stay: Rooms at the adults-only Hotel Sages start at $138 per night @hotelsages
Play: Mari Beach Club @maribeachclubbali
Shop: Amalfi Moon @amalfi.moon; Bungalow Living @bungalowlivingbali; Kate Wood @katewood_bali; Temple & Shrine @temple_and_shrine
Dine: Cinta @cafecinta; the Common @thecommonbali; Kong @kong_bali; Milk & Madu @milkandmadu; Penny Lane @pennylanebali; Santanera @santanerabali; Sprout @sproutbali; Yema Kitchen @yema.bali
Heal: Amo Spa @amospabali; Desa Seni Wellness Centre @desaseni_avillageresort
Apps: Before you go download Gojek and PeduliLindungi.