With resorts planning for full operations, there is plenty to look forward to for this year’s ski season, both locally and abroad. New Zealand is again welcoming trans-Tasman tourism and with the planned reopening of a family-favourite resort in NSW, there’s plenty to get excited about.
Given the disruptions of the last two years, it’s no surprise that there hasn’t been much in the way of big-ticket investments, with resort operators opting for low-key returns to the space. But with already intense demand for accommodation it will pay to make your move now for a snow holiday. Here’s the best of what Australia and New Zealand have to offer.
New South Wales
In skiing and snowboarding, it often comes down to the turns. In the case of NSW’s premier winter playgrounds that means the ones you make on the road as much as those on the slopes. The battle lines for your winter dollar are drawn where the Alpine Way meets Kosciuszko Road at the mountain feeder town of Jindabyne.
Hook a left on former and you’ll be on your way to Thredbo. Supporting less than 500 full-time residents, the ski town transmorphs in winter to a bustling village of more than 4000 people in its neatly laid out centre. It’s a natural beauty; the ski runs cut amongst the trees and two bases giving it a more ambient, international feel than any other resort in Australia.
Continue along the Kosciuszko Road and you’ll wind your way up to Perisher. The Vail-owned behemoth combines what was once four separate ski areas into the southern hemisphere’s biggest resort with 47 lifts accessing more than 1200 hectares of terrain. Available under the Epic Pass, Perisher makes a pretty compelling case for those who want to also ride Hotham or Falls Creek as well as one of the Vail Group’s multitude of Northern Hemisphere resorts.
Sneaky tip: After the devastating bushfires of 2019, Selwyn Snowfields is set to re-open in 2022. At the time of writing, Selwyn hadn’t released its pricing, but in its previous incarnations, it has always had the edge on its competitors when it comes to bang for buck. Best suited to beginners and lower intermediates, Selwyn is a smart option for those new to the sport. With its lower elevation, it shines brightest in peak season conditions. Charlotte Pass is also a good low-key option.
Victoria
From city access to the steeps and a superb family village – the diversity of Victoria’s three key alpine resorts has always been a central part of the southern state’s appeal for a winter holiday.
Just three hours from Melbourne, Mt Buller ticks the box for day-trippers with extensive facilities, diverse accommodation and dining options in the village and a surprisingly eclectic range of terrain. While certainly slimmer on the white stuff, the resort has expanded its use of Snow Factory technology in 2022, pumping out the powder in key areas in virtually any conditions.
The cute village and ski-in, ski-out vibe of Falls Creek make it a big hit with families who want convenience and a good choice of on-mountain dining. Mt Hotham is a far wilder animal. With most of the facilities set at the top of the hill, it can be an interesting ride in if the weather is bad; but the pay-off comes with some of the best terrain and, when on, conditions in the country.
Sneaky tip: Dinner Plain. ‘Feeder towns’ to Australian ski resorts offer better value than the on-mountain experience and are fantastic options for those who can’t run to the often prohibitive expense of staying on-hill. What Dinner Plain does better than most is offer a village vibe, with a high enough elevation that usually has it under snow. The 12-kilometre commute to Mt Hotham is also a little friendlier than 30-kilometre-plus hauls associated with many of the other secondary ski towns in NSW and Victoria.
New Zealand
After what has effectively been two seasons without access to Kiwi resorts, our cousins across the ditch are expected to be catering for an influx of Aussies this winter. Already regarded as a safe destination after its handling of Covid, the timing for a snow holiday in NZ couldn’t be much better.
Much of the action happens around two towns, a little more than an hour apart. Queenstown is the hyperactive kid who struggles to switch off; a partier’s playground with nightclubs, pubs and restaurants aplenty. Oh, and it also houses a couple of ski resorts in Coronet Peak and the Remarkables.
Wanaka is a little more laid-back. Also with two ski areas that have wildly different reputations. While Treble Cone is the untamed beast with gnarly powder lines and chutes, Cardrona is the place of a much gentler pace. Its mellower terrain and highly regarded snow sports school make it a fantastic resort to learn skiing or snowboarding and its terrain parks and halfpipes are the best in the southern hemisphere.
Elsewhere, the Canterbury district around Christchurch supports a couple of commercial resorts in Mt Hutt and Porters. Decidedly more chilled than their southern brethren, they both offer excellent riding on their day.
For something completely different, try the Kiwi club fields, smattered across the South Island. The facilities are rather rudimentary but they offer a rather soulful return to skiing and snowboarding’s roots.
Sneaky tip: Mt Ruapehu in spring. The North Island massif tends to be a magnet for all kinds of rough weather, but its farm is often a lot more calm come September. With a good base and sunny skies it’s an intriguing mountain to explore, well serviced by 18 lifts across the two resort areas of Turoa and Whakapapa and with regularly improving infrastructure. Avoid the weekend influx from Auckland and Wellington if you can, and instead tackle some incredible day walks, mountain biking or a day on lake Taupo when the hill hits overfill.
Visit: nzski.com (Coronet Peak, The Remarkables, Mt Hutt); mtruapehu.com; cardrona.com; treblecone.com; portersalpineresort.com; skitheclubbies.nz
Weather – or not?
After some of the heaviest historical rains along swathes of the Australian east coast in the last six months and a La Nina which seemingly refuses to budge, what does this all mean for snow conditions this winter? The answer is like the old Facebook relationship status option: it’s complicated. While many professional forecasters feel it’s a touch early to stick their neck out with predictions, history has shown that if the La Nina doesn’t loosen its grip, we’ll see more precipitation than usual and that the maximum snow depth achieved is likely to at least be better than in an El Nino year. That’s the win. The loss is that doesn’t account for temperatures. Unfortunately, seven of the last eight La Nina years have also produced lower maximum snow depths because of the amount of precipitation that has fallen as rain. The early tip then? If a big snow event arrives – race down to lap it up, as you don’t know what’s around the corner.
