As beautiful 16-year-old Elisabeth was being paraded through Vienna on the way to her wedding in 1854, spectators on the side of the road could see her sobbing in her carriage. Within hours, she would be the Empress of Austria, married to one of the era's most influential leaders, Franz Joseph I. But that unintentional show of emotion foretold a story that would be less about the trappings of her new life and more about feeling trapped in it.
While The Crown has taken us inside the lives of the British Royal Family, a new Netflix series, The Empress, is doing the same for Empress Elisabeth, better known by her nickname Sisi. She was possibly the world's first celebrity royal, more than a century before Princess Diana, yet their lives are uncannily similar - a photogenic young woman adored by the public but in constant conflict with the rigid formalities of her role and powerful in-laws.
While The Empress offers a fascinating insight into the tribulations of Sisi, it's in the Austrian capital, Vienna, that you're able to immerse yourself in her life - from the rooms where she spent her days to the clothes that she wore. Even 124 years after her death, Sisi is still one of the most beloved members of the imperial family and there are numerous sights dedicated to her story.
In the centre of Vienna - and the centre of Sisi's life - is the Hofburg, the Imperial Palace of the Habsburgs. The vast palatial complex of opulence was, to the young Sisi, a prison. But, when you visit today, it's hard to envisage how someone could not find space for themselves. The route through the Imperial Apartments (home to the emperor and empress, and the main historic area you can access) leads through more than 20 rooms, many larger than a modern flat.
Along with the main bedroom, which Franz Joseph moved out of 16 years into their marriage, Sisi had her own dressing room covered in deep crimson wallpaper where she spent much of her time (including three hours to do her hair each day). She also had a large saloon with a central chandelier where she hosted receptions; a small saloon for more intimate gatherings; and another long room decorated with large tapestries between white and gold panelling used for more formal dinners.
While many parts of the Hofburg are still used for official purposes today, including as the residence and office of Austria's president, there are many public museums, including the Sisi Museum. Through five rooms, the life of the Empress is presented in a way that is described as "not uncritical" but with the aim of showing the real person beyond the public reputation. The highlights are the dresses, dazzling even without their owner, but other interesting items include parasols, fans, gloves and even her travelling medicine chest.
Sisi longed to escape from the Hofburg - and in later years she did, spending much of her time travelling to places like Hungary or the residence she built on the Greek island of Corfu. But in the early years of her marriage, the furthest she was able to go was to the Habsburg's summer residence, Schonbrunn Palace... which is only five kilometres away. These days it is essentially part of Vienna and its proximity makes it easy to visit.
Sisi is still one of the most beloved members of the imperial family.
There's more to see at Schonbrunn Palace than the Hofburg, with more than 40 rooms open, including the incredible 43-metre-long Great Gallery decorated with opulent frescoes and gilt stucco.
But, in some ways, it's the more austere rooms that I find particularly striking. Despite the lavishness of the monumental Baroque residence, Franz Joseph's bedroom has just a tiny single iron bed in the corner where he slept alone with a praying stool beside him. The emperor may not have sobbed in a carriage, but you wonder if he was any happier than his wife.
Exploring Vienna, it's not hard to imagine the city during the days of Sisi. The historic centre has been well preserved, the ornate facades of the many Baroque buildings still dominating the streetscape. And there are more memories of the empress tucked away among the centuries of heritage.
Near the Hofburg is the Augustinerkirche (Augustinian Church), the official court church of the Habsburgs where, beyond the incongruously plain facade, Franz Joseph and Elisabeth were married. Tucked away in a corner of the Volksgarten public park is a large marble monument dedicated to Sisi that was unveiled in the presence of her husband. The Vienna Furniture Museum has items used by the Habsburgs, along with a permanent exhibition showcasing the 1950s movie trilogy about Sissi (as those films spelt her name). And the Imperial Carriage Museum in Schonbrunn Palace Park has items in its collection from Sisi's life - and her death, including the black hearse used at her funeral after she was assassinated in 1898 by an Italian anarchist.
So, perhaps it's appropriate to finish at the Imperial Crypt, also known as the Capuchin Crypt, where Empress Elisabeth was laid to rest. From a bustling market square, you step through a simple doorway and down among the tombs of royalty, magnificently dignified sarcophagi decorated with metal sculptures. In comparison to most of the 30 emperors and empresses here, Sisi's tomb (along with that of Franz Joseph) is stately but understated. Her elegance is immortalised, but even now she still seems out of place in a city that embraced her nonetheless.
Michael Turtle was a guest of the Austrian National Tourist Office.
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: The most convenient flights from Australia to Vienna are through the Middle East on Emirates, Qatar Airways, or Etihad.
Staying there: The Leo Grand is a stylish boutique hotel within a historic Baroque building.
Touring there: Gems of Vienna offers a small-group tour of the main Sisi sights. gemsofvienna.at
Explore more: wien.info/en
