Bangkok buzz: 10 top reasons to visit the Thai capital right now

Before you-know-what, about 800,000 Australians visitors used to land in Thailand every year. Now the country is back open, ready to welcome visitors to its beaches, islands, mountains and colourful capital. A lot has changed in two years, so here's what's new in Bangkok.

Everyone loves a night market. The sizzle of grills, the energy of the crowds, the lure of a bargain T-shirt. But if you find them a little overwhelming, head to Jodd Fairs. This is the old Ratchada Train Night Market in a new location and completely gussied up. You can get your nails done, check out cool merch then grab plates of delicious food and cooling beers before finding a table in the astroturfed eating area. There are plenty of favourites, like chicken skewers, noodles, watermelon smoothies and giant takoyaki balls, but you can also try jumping shrimp salad, leng saap (a mountain of boiled pork spine sitting in hot and sour soup and topped with green chilli and coriander) and fried insects if you're feeling a tad adventurous.

Get set for a slice of Buenos Aires on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Within a year of opening, BKK Social Club, part of the Four Seasons Hotel, came in at number 14 on the list of Asia's Best Bars 2022. Beverage manager Philip Bischoff and his team keep it tight in the grand room with its Art Nouveau influences and see-and-be-seen banquettes, but it's the signature cocktails - often a twist on the classics - where they really shine. "The drinks are inspired by places, landmarks, characters and parties from Argentina," says Bischoff. "The Hand of God is, obviously, in reference to Diego Maradona, but it also has a tequila base because the World Cup where that incident took place was in Mexico." For us, though, it's all about the Bananazo, which is a riff on a classic Old Fashioned, served with a tiny banana pancake topped with a bump of caviar. fourseasons.com

Lanna cuisine comes from Thailand's north where the weather is cooler and nations like China and Myanmar are close and wield a flavoursome influence. At North Restaurant, chef Panupong "Nu" Songsang, originally from Chiang Rai, combines traditional culinary culture and ingredients from the region with Western techniques. At lunchtime, tuck into a refined version of the famous Lanna dish, khao soi, a thick noodle and curry soup. As the sun sets, the menu served within the pretty century-old villa changes. For dinner, chef Nu serves an eight-course tasting menu featuring dishes like giant river prawn with khao soi angel hair pasta and herb sauces. But the highlight is Khan Toke North, a sharing plate with five different northern specialties. north-restaurant.com

Need a reprieve from the concrete jungle? Get away from the crowds, within walking distance of Sukhumvit and Silom at Benchakitti Skywalk. This 50-hectare extension to the more mature Benchakitti Forest Park opened in December 2021. On land that used to belong to the Tobacco Authority of Thailand - the former warehouses are still being converted into sports facilities - explore a two-kilometre-long elevated boardwalk that meanders above wetlands where you can spy egrets and water dragons so big you'll be glad you're above them. There are lots of other walking and cycling trails to stroll along, as well as benches beneath rain and teak trees where you can sit and rest.

If there's one business Bangkok isn't short of it is massage parlours. On every street, you'll see signs for reflexology and aromatherapy (beware the "soapy" massage), but Baan Ya Hom Zantiis is a little different. A two-storey teak house has been carefully transformed to capture the building's history as the former home of a traditional doctor. That's carried through the business where the cosy restaurant, cafe and bar serves Thai dishes and drink incorporating herbs and ingredients that promote wellbeing. There's also a gift shop and apothecary, but the main event, a bright and relaxing retreat and healing practice, is upstairs, where a revitalising hour-long Thai massage costs about $15. baanyahom.com

Get the best views in the city from Sky Beach, the highest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Set on top of the sharp and sophisticated Standard Bangkok, it dishes up an eyeful of skyscrapers, freeways and Chao Phraya far below. The retro-cool bar serves up American-style snacks and classic cocktails, but be sure to arrive here as the sun sets. There's not a hint of shade on the rooftop, and the Bangkok rays are relentless during the day. Those who dare can don cloth booties and stroll out onto the glass deck; those who don't, should sit back on the amphitheatre-style seats and watch as their brave compadres shuffle out over the city below. standardhotels.com

It's not just Melbourne that boasts cafes hidden down laneways. In a new lifestyle estate called GalileOasis, discover Piccolo Vicolo. It's one of many chic, photo-friendly outlets across the city - think kitkat tiles and green glass light shades, vintage furniture and potted palms - where you'll see influencers snapping away for Instagram and TikTok. Don't let that turn you off, though. You'll get a great vanilla cloud latte here - or a Black Lemon (espresso with homemade lemon syrup and soda) or matcha coconut water - and a delicious pastry to keep you going.

At 10pm on a Thursday night there are only two seats at the bar left. Not that there are a lot of seats at Freaking Out the Neighborhood, a music listening bar built into a shipping container. In one corner, flip through the albums and merch from Have You Heard Records, the promoters behind this demure drinking den; then order a classic cocktail and sit back and listen to whatever long-player the bar staff have placed on the turntable. When we walked in, it was King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard with Mile High Club's Sketches of Brunswick East.

There's nothing quite like a newly minted artistic hub and More Rice Record Store is at the heart of this cultural constellation. Jay Sriyuksiri, aka Sarayu, and Pakarapol 'Top' Anantakritayathorn, aka DOTT, who own the More Rice label, brought in local tastemaker Ellie Khodayar to curate the collection of Asian electronica and oversee the listening room. "The label had its fifth anniversary [in late November], so naturally we expanded to the record store," says Khodayar. "We opened during the second wave of Covid in Bangkok. We were here doing inventory and setting up anyway, so it became like a living room for our friends and DJs and people in the scene." Downstairs is Proper, a bar co-owned by Top, while his ex-girlfriend Narisa runs Chand, the candle shop next door. A variety of relationships mean Simple Natural Kitchen, a brunch cafe, and Balance, four suites styled with the mid-century in mind, are also part of the clique. Just steps away is 31 Degrees by Kad Kokoa, a shop, restaurant and bar focused on Thai-grown cocoa and all that can made from it.

Yaowarat, Bangkok's Chinatown, is all about street food, temples and glorious historic architecture, but in recent years it's been undergoing a transformation. Now, you'll find galleries, street art, hipster cafes and stores, and super-cool walking streets. Warehouse 30 led the charge, but across the road seek out Charoen 43 Art & Eatery. Here, you'll discover minimalist cafe Madi Bkk, live music bar Bangkok Mojo, local fashion and art at C43, record store and bar Entertainment Project, and spectacular desserts, tarts and cakes at Chutie is Baking. In the 'hood, you might also want to seek out Over the Influence, for international contemporary art, and Ong Ang Walking Street.

Wander around the ruins of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, 90 minutes from Bangkok. Founded in 1351 as the one of the capitals of Siam and destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, the four temples at the city centre have been recognised by UNESCO and now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park. Head outside the park's boundaries to escape the crowds and discover other interesting ruins.

Island Time

There's no need to head far from the capital to find a jungle oasis. Bang Krachao is an island in the middle of the Chao Phraya River, in the middle of the city. It does, however, feel a world away, with its villages, floating market and local lifestyle. Hire a bike from one of the stores then take your time exploring temples, visiting farms, pedalling past mangroves and palm groves in Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park, and stopping at coffee shops.

Float away

About an hour south of Bangkok is Ratchaburi where you'll find the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. Granted, this is mostly a tourist spot now, but it's still a wonderful way to experience the atmosphere of a Thai tradition that stretches back for more than a century.

Beach daze

Probably better known for its nightlife, Pattaya also has some beautiful stretches of sand if you're keen to sunbathe, swim or snorkel within a two-hire drive of Bangkok. Hire jet skis and go paragliding at Pattaya Beach or enjoy the low-key atmosphere of family-friendly Jomtien Beach. Divers or those who want to get away from tourists should try Bang Saray, 25 minutes south of Pattaya.

Creature feature

If you've got the kids with you, head about three hours out of Bangkok to Thailand's only alpaca farm. As well as a whole herd of the South American camelids, AlpacaHill has other farm and exotic animals and birds that visitors can feed and pat, as well as tiny Hobbiton-style houses surrounded by rolling farmland. alpacahill.com

Float away

For the epitome of luxury, join Loy Pela Voyages on an overnight river journey from Bangkok to Ayutthaya and back. You and up to seven of your nearest and dearest will have exclusive use of a majestically converted rice boat on a tour tailored to your interests, whether that includes a lavish afternoon tea on the deck or a tuk-tuk ride around Bang Krachao. loypelavoyages.com

Getting there: Thai AirAsia X launched direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi in December 2022. There'll be four weekly flights servicing Sydney, and three to and from Melbourne. Make your trip more comfortable by booking one of the 12 premium flatbed seats at the front of the Airbus 330. airasia.com

Staying there: When you arrive, Movenpick Hotel Sukhumvit 15 Bangkok is a central and supremely comfortable five-star hotel, with a divine pool and plenty of shaded nooks, perfect for napping and reading, on its rooftop. Each afternoon, guests gather at its Lelawadee Restaurant for the signature Chocolate Hour. movenpick.com

Explore more: tourismthailand.org