Big on beauty and numbers: A South Pacific adventure

As soon as I set foot on the wharf at Port Vila in Vanuatu, the heavens open. First, big blobs of rain thud on parched, bone-dry earth. Then a sudden downpour inundates everything in sight in seconds.

I've arrived here as part of a nine-day Brisbane-to-Brisbane cruise of the Pacific islands onboard the Royal Caribbean's Quantum of the Seas.

Earlier this morning - from the balcony of my stateroom - every Vanuatu cliche rang true. Lush mountains, ribbons of white sands, and waters in shameless shades of green and blue.

But the weather has turned. I can tell it's the first downpour in a long time. Petrichor - the scent of rain on dry earth - is rising.

Despite the wet spell, though, it's pleasantly warm here. And I'm not just talking about the temperature.

Ebullient locals reach out from every direction. A customs officer hands me a rainbow-hued umbrella - for me to use at no cost all day. Another one confirms my weather analysis. "The last time it rained like this, it was a few months ago," he says. Yet another local gives me hope. "If it's wet today, it'll definitely be sunny tomorrow." Luckily, the city-sized ship - with 2090 staterooms, almost 5000 passengers, 23 eateries and eight pools - is docking in Port Vila for two days.

And my well wisher is correct: the next day Vanuatu is behaving itself with clear skies and heat beating down on my bare arms first thing in the morning. So I waste no time, sign up for a small-group tour and start exploring the island's top highlights.

Blue Lagoon - a swimming spot 35 minutes east of Port Vila - is my first stop. There are very few places in the world that look as beautiful as their postcards. With hypnotic emerald-hued waters, Blue Lagoon is definitely one of them.

"But it's the worst-kept Vanuatu secret," says my guide Mike. "Look at this, the whole ship is here," he adds pointing at raucous crowds diving into the warm waters.

Let me take you to a place no one knows, he promises, then drives our group of eight goggle-eyed, swimmers-clad Aussies - all from Quantum of the Seas - to a spot where a river meets the sea.

With its crystal-clear waters and shallows that go on for miles, Eton Beach is just a five-minute drive from the tourist-packed Blue Lagoon, and only a few metres from the main road, but because it hides behind dense foliage, few have found their way to this serene spot today.

Vanuatu, however, is not the only stop on my cruise. Perched on a peninsula - with soaring palms, mesmerising sea views at every turn and thousands of white yachts bobbing in the distance, New Caledonia's cosmopolitan capital Noumea is another Pacific gem on the itinerary.

On the day we dock there, we only have eight hours to explore the city. And I decide to spend half of that at Le Roof - a fine-dining establishment, renowned as much for its design as it is for its food. Suspended over the ocean on stilts, about 100 metres from the shore, the thatched-roof restaurant features an internal ocean pool - a good chunk of its floor has been cut off, so diners can gawk at colourful marine life as they tuck into their crab terrine, a balmy sea breeze in their hair.

The jagged mountains of Vanuatu and the creamy breaches of New Caledonia, however, are not the only drawcards of this trip. An entire world of basketball courts and bumper cars, rock-climbing and surfing, gleaming malls and packed pizzerias, spiral staircases and glass elevators is waiting back on the ship. It's no wonder megaliners like this one are popular with families (see details on opposite page).

My cabin is a well-appointed 23-square-metre retreat with an ensuite and private balcony, and more storage than I can fill with my personal belongings (and I don't travel light!). But who has time to lounge around where you can sky-dive - albeit simulated - in the middle of the sea?

Which is what is do next, along with plenty of other things. Stepping into North Star - a glass-enclosed pod attached to a giant mechanical hand on top of the ship - is another highlight. Accommodating 14 people, the pod rises 100 metres above sea level to give guests 360-degree views. Top tip: Find out when the sun sets and book the session closest to when the yellow lozenge drops into the ocean for ultimate views.

There are many laidback experiences onboard, too - from lolling by the poolside to relaxing at the spa with a massage. Not to mention a spate of eateries - from relaxed cafes to fine-dining establishments like Jamie's Italian.

But it's the colourful characters on board - and some hardcore cruisers - who are the real life of the party here. "Have you visited Vanuatu before," I ask the elderly woman on the table next to mine at dinner with the innocence of a first-time ocean cruiser.

"Only 30 or 40 times on cruises like this, my dear," she answers with the nonchalance of a veteran. In fact, when this cruise ends, she's not getting off. "I found a great deal, so I'm just going to do the same cruise again."

I guess you would need another cruise to pack in all the experiences onboard this ship.

Akash Arora was a guest of Royal Caribbean.