Everything about the experience of dining at Van Bone feels immersive and theatrical.
We know we're onto a winner before we've eaten a mouthful of food at Van Bone as we arrive at the rammed-earth restaurant cut into the hillside overlooking Marion Bay, in south-east Tasmania. Early-morning rain has brightened the greys and greens of the countryside, which invites us down the path and into a small dimly lit foyer. Excitement builds as we catch a glimpse of chef Timothy Hardy, who trained under Luke Burgess at Hobart's Garagistes, toiling over the wood-fired grill at the heart of the open kitchen.
It's as if our very arrival has been choreographed. And according to Laura Stucken, interior architect and co-director of Van Bone, it has. The space opens up further as we walk into the main restaurant space, which is filled with warm Tasmanian oak and custom-made communal tables and a framed view of the landscape through a vast wall of windows.
Everything about the experience of dining at Van Bone feels immersive and theatrical. The scene is set for creating a special event for the six couples - including us - who have committed four hours of their afternoon to celebrating the culinary arts over 14 courses. A big part of the appeal of this destination diner is the fact you get what you're given, with the menu incorporating produce from the restaurant's kitchen garden and orchards and singing of both land and sea.
Highlights include a crisp slice of potato dusted in flavours of the sea, a pretty nasturtium parcel of flathead and scallop, and a flax cracker topped with a duck liver parfait. There's also pork jowl grilled on apple wood with coffee and paired with a drop from nearby Bream Creek vineyard. Everything on the menu is cooked over coals. It's a one-of-a-kind restaurant that celebrates the local farmers, fisherman and artisans. And from where we're sitting, overlooking the green folds of the countryside that tumbles down to the sea, there's no better way to get a sense of place.
