Ethical elephant encounters are just the beginning in Chiang Rai.
Crack, crunch, rustle... the tell-tale sounds of movement in the bush interrupt my reverie just before a strong pair of arms yanks me off the narrow trail, as a giant three-ton elephant lumbers right across where I was standing seconds ago. I'm not actually scared (although my partner believes this is the rescue mission of the year!), but it does bring home the fact that we are enjoying an unusually close encounter with these gigantic animals.
We are on the "walking with giants" tour at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in Thailand's northernmost province of Chiang Rai, where we can closely yet respectfully observe and interact with a few of the 20-strong herd of rescued elephants that live on the 64-hectare property.
The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation (GTEF), a non-profit run in partnership with the resort, takes working elephants off the streets of Thai cities, to rehabilitate them in an environment that is as close to their natural habitat as possible.
"We have been able to provide these elephants with a place they can live away from the horrors of the street, and of what humans have done to them," explains Nissa Mutatanont, head elephant veterinarian at GTEF, as we amble along the trail.
Elephant conservation is a complex subject, but I am reassured that the work being done here is truly for the greater good, not just for the animals but for their mahouts and families, too.
And I can see it in how comfortable and playful the animals seem. Key to this is their ability to live together as a social group.
I got to see the social bond between two of the elephants, Dah and Pumpui, from unusually close quarters the night before, which I'd spent in a "jungle bubble", a truly unique glamping experience at the resort. Spending a night in a transparent dome in the forest - fully kitted out with luxury mod cons - with the two elephants just outside, casually chomping away at the Napier grass in their enclosure, is surreal.
Between dinner feasting on northern Thai specialties under the stars on the deck of our bubble tent last night, and our walk this morning, we've had the opportunity to enjoy unfettered access to the pachyderms - while staying within the realm of responsible tourism. We've watched them eat, play with nine-year-old Yokfah (the youngest member of the herd), contemplate a swim in the silted Ruak River which runs through the property before it meets the Mekong, and we've gingerly touched wrinkled grey trunks, gazing into their wise eyes... But mostly we've watched them eat (they spend an average of 18 hours a day eating).
We've gingerly touched wrinkled grey trunks, gazing into their wise eyes.
Elephants weren't always the calling card of Chiang Rai. It's probably best known for being home to the Golden Triangle - where Thailand intersects with Myanmar and Laos, the mighty Mekong providing a riverine border. This lush, hilly region offers a very different Thailand experience, far removed from the beaches and bustle of the south. Here, time seems to slow down.
And the resort, set on a hill overlooking the tri-border area on the banks of the Ruak, blends seamlessly into this sylvan environment, both thanks to its low-rise architecture, as well as the thoughtful integration of traditional Lanna architecture, arts and crafts.
The moniker Golden Triangle owes its origins to the region's grim past as an opium-growing hub. But it could very well have been named thus for how the landscape glows golden when the rising sun hits the Daen Lao mountain range, gently lifting shrouds of mist off the valley.
Royal efforts since the 1980s have led to opium production being almost entirely eliminated from Thailand, with the fecund lands now being used for the cultivation of rather more wholesome crops.
A meandering exploration of the valley takes us past endless rice paddy fields, plantations of pineapple, cassava and other local produce, numerous Buddhist temples and tidy little villages with decidedly unruly tropical vegetation tumbling down the hillsides around them. (Insider tip: guests at the Anantara resort can choose to tour in souped up Royal Enfield bikes with sidecars - a quirky, thrilling alternative to driving or cycling around.)
With land this fertile, nature's bounty inevitably translates onto the dining table. Northern Thai culture and cuisine - rooted in the centuries-old Lanna kingdom, which predated the Siam kingdom of Bangkok - is quite distinct from the Siamese culture we have come to associate with Thailand.
Defined by the plentiful use of unique local herbs and wild greens, a heavy reliance on rice (Lanna literally translates into "kingdom of a million rice fields"), a milder heat profile, and an emphasis on condiments such as nam pla prik (sweet chilli dip with fish sauce), the flavours here are subtler yet more complex.
The region's other claim to fame are the Tham Luang caves, which captured global attention for the 2018 rescue incident. Today, only the first chamber of the caves is open to visitors, with memorabilia from the survivors and tourist signs up for display. The signage is mostly in Thai, but we don't need to be able to read them to understand the perils of this place, nor the scale of human endeavour that went into the happy ending of this story. As we wander through the dimly lit cavern, a steady drip of water droplets from the stalactites provide a sobering reminder of just how deadly water can be in these dangerously beautiful caves.
Indeed, I may have come to Chiang Rai for the elephants - and the up-close encounter I am afforded here is truly unforgettable - but I'm leaving with the feeling that I've discovered one of Thailand's best kept secrets. A place where the mystical beauty of the landscape is matched only by its rich culture, cuisine, history and, importantly, a deep sense of community. A place where giving everything you've got to rescue someone in need, whether it's abused elephants or stranded youngsters, feels like the most natural thing in the world.
Sudeshna Ghosh was a guest of Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Chiang Rai is an hour's flight from Bangkok with multiple domestic airline options. The Golden Triangle region is about another hour's drive from the airport.
Staying there: Room rates are about $1865 a night for two, including meals and activities. Jungle Bubble experiences start from $800.
Explore more: anantara.com
