Mud crabs and fossilised footprints: Dampier Peninsula is one for the adventurous.
That thing is the size of a dinner plate," says our tour guide and Bardi Jawi man Bolo Angus, spear held firmly in hand, as he manages to spot our lunch - mud crab - burrowed deep in brown sludge. And trust me, that mud crab isn't the only thing submerged. A dozen of us are following in Bolo's footsteps along the east coast of the Dampier Peninsula, 195 kilometres north-east of Broome, trudging through muddy terrain to understand the survival tactics of his ancestors - and in search of our main course.
This fun, filthy and fruitful trek is just one of many authentic Indigenous experiences in the "Gateway of the Kimberley". Planning these adventures has become less of a challenge thanks to a new campground and regional tour booking office. The Djarindjin Campground is a one-stop shop to book extraordinary, one-of-a-kind adventures in the area, home to a dazzling colour palette of flaming red coastal cliffs, turquoise waters, white shores and salt plains, and lush mangroves. So, are you ready to get wet and wild?
Hunters Creek Tagalong Tour
We join Bardi man Brian Lee on a tagalong tour trailblazing the coast. On this epic 4WD adventure (you'll need your own vehicle), Brian reveals the region's hidden treasures while sharing his perspectives of Country and Dreamtime stories. We journey from coast to creek, blitzing the beaches of Cape Leveque, before taking a bumpy yet exhilarating ride to the outback oasis of Hunters Creek, a postcard-perfect setting of shimmering blue waters dotted with lush mangroves. There are plenty of activities to participate in along the coast. Brian teaches the ways of traditional fishing with a spear; or you can take the adventure to the seas, hopping on board a motorboat ride; or grab an oar and discover it for yourself, kayaking through mangroves. We replenish our energy with an introduction to the Bardi diet, feasting on freshly caught sweet lips, mangrove jack, and emperor and mud crabs, cooked over a Bardi-style campfire.
- Tour available April-November; $150 an adult, $50 a child; djarindjin.com.au/experiences
Oolin Sunday Island Tour
Jawi tour guide Rosanna Angus is a passionate teller of her ancestors' history on the former missionary settlement, Sunday Island. The faraway island can only be accessed on Rosanna's new tour, granted special permission to take visitors to the culturally significant destination.
Departing from Cygnet Bay, we retrace the journey of the Bardi Jawi people to the remote island in King Sound, cruising through Middle Passage and observing the region's powerful tidal movements, as well as rugged scenery and local wildlife. If you time your visit right, you might witness natural phenomena: a waterfall reef and massive whirlpools. Once we arrive at the island's stone barge landing, we retrace the island's history, from trepang and pearling station to becoming a mission in 1899.
Rosanna gives an emotionally charged commentary about her family's connection to the island. Make your ascent up a stone staircase to view what still stands of the former settlement that closed in 1962. Countless islands, soaring rocky outcrops and glassy waters are also part of a spectacular scene.
- Tour available March-September; $350/$250 (ages 5-15); sundayislandtours.com.au
Southern Cross Cultural Walk
On this half-day coastal walkabout through a landscape of raw beauty, Bardi Jawi tour guide Bolo Angus shares his cultural knowledge and survival methods adopted by his ancestors in Lullumb. He instructs on what can be found in "nature's nursery", foraging bush-tucker treats such as berries and crustaceans in small streams and bush medicines.
Wandering through Country soon becomes a test of endurance. The terrain calls for a game of "the floor is lava", with careful footwork required to walk along intertwining mangrove roots. It's not done in vain with mud crabs on the menu - that's if you can spot them. Bolo excels at his tracking game, making the great poke with his metres-long spear into burrows of chocolate-brown mud to lure the thick-clawed delicacy. But is the strenuous workout worth it?
A beach banquet of freshly barbecued fish, mud crabs and damper beautifully displayed over native flora awaits at the end of our muddy marathon - so yes, our mission through muck is worth it! While we enjoy healthy amounts of omega-three, Bolo performs songs with traditional instruments and tells Dreamtime stories.
- Tour available April-October; $160/$80 (ages 6-16); lullumbtours.com.au
Bundy's Coastal Adventure Tour
Softy-spoken local legend Bundy has been leading 4WD tagalong tours (your own 4WD is essential) with his family for years. You'll journey through coastal community Lombadina, visiting its namesake beach and learning Bardi history and Dreamtime stories. Bundy then takes it up a notch, guiding you along a sandy stretch until reaching rocky grounds. It's a jaw-dropping stop, with Bundy pointing out an incredible landmark - fossilised human footprints.
The 4WD adventure continues with Bundy teaching how to spearfish and hunt for mud crabs. Cap off the day with a seafood feast (a common practice, can't you tell?) of your catch along the beach, cooked over a Bardi-style campfire. Choose to linger around longer to watch the sunset over the pure shores. Bliss.
- Tour available April-November; $120/$60; djarindjin.com.au/experiences
Julia D'Orazio travelled courtesy of Tourism Western Australia. Minimum numbers required for each tour, so make sure to book in advance. To find out more, email campground@djarindjin.com.au or see djarindjin.com.au