A dramatic food experience takes centrestage in NSW's Albury

Growing up in Albury, a Blue Heaven milkshake from a Dean Street cafe and fish and chips in brown paper were the biggest treats. Now the city's vibrant food scene beckons locals, and those on the well-worn route between Melbourne and Sydney, to linger and taste.

Newcomer to Albury's dining scene is Glenbosch on Dean with a theatrical nine-course degustation menu as well as a la carte. Step into the bar with striking antler chandeliers and limewood booths, then - through dramatic timber doors - enter the industrial minimal-look restaurant with polished concrete floors, exposed-brick walls and tables with a butcher's block veneer.

It's the latest venture of Dirk and Nika Bester, who moved from the Western Cape of South Africa in 2019 and opened Glenbosch Wine Estate with a restaurant, distillery and eco cottages at Everton Upper, about 10 minutes drive from Beechworth.

South African chef Chris De Jongh, who learnt his skills at Cape Town's acclaimed La Colombe, steers the two Glenbosch restaurants. He's a fan of molecular gastronomy, with his finest creations starring on his nine-course Albury "passport" menu - available on the first Saturday of every month.

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Each course has a catchy name - Flying Over the Ocean features a sago crisp, tuna tartar and a "smoking" oyster surrounded by dry ice, while a whimsical palette cleanser called Let's Sip on a Glenbosch Gin, Differently, has gin sherbet and an elderflower and a lime lollipop.

There's a hint of Vegemite in the We are Back Down Under course with Vegemite gel, smoked cheese and pickled onion and a butter cracker. Duck breast makes an appearance with apple vanilla puree, pickled baby beetroot and three-day duck jus, while the finale - cherry sorbet, fig, honeycomb, citrus panna cotta and chocolate spaghetti - is deserving of applause.

It's food theatre at its show biz best. glenbosch.com.au