Tasmanian frontier: The undiscovered gems of Huon Valley

You hit the end of the line when the road ends at a beautiful, often deserted beach, known as Cockle Creek. No shops. No pubs. Just sand, blue water and walking tracks into the bush. Next stop, Tasmania's south-west wilderness. The only way in from here is by boat or plane.

The Huon Highway traverses the Huon Valley, once one of Tasmania's tightest-held secrets. Now the secret is well and truly out of the bag with campervans and cars towing caravans a familiar site in the small towns that dot the valley: Huonville, Cygnet, Franklin, Geeveston and Dover among them. The region starts just 40 minutes south of Hobart.

The hamlets are surrounded by many natural wonders that remain largely undiscovered, such as the walking trails of the Hartz Mountains National Park and beaches of towns like Verona Sands. Life moves at a slower pace here, in the deepest south of Australia. You can do your fruit and vegetable shopping from roadside "honesty" stalls, pick blackberries from the hedgerows, or throw in a line and catch a flathead or two.

There are no luxury resorts in the Huon Valley. Not even a McDonald's or a KFC. Traffic lights? You won't see one until you approach Hobart. What you will find is sleepy rivers, orchards, friendly locals and some of the freshest food in the nation.

There are some tourism attractions, sure, but the Tahune AirWalk (where you can walk over the forest canopy) and the Hastings Caves and thermal mineral baths remain resolutely sleepy. You can also pop into the Wooden Boat Centre, which sits on the bank of the Huon River in Franklin. It is the only school in Australia teaching traditional wooden boat construction.

In the Huon, cafe owners pluck apples and pears from their own trees, and gourmet shops sell chutneys and pickles that were grown next door. Buy a bottle of wine from one of the local producers and it might have travelled just a kilometre in total from vineyard to winery to cellar door.

Over the past decade - inspired by Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans and venues like the Port Cygnet Cannery - the Huon has built a reputation for its fresh produce. But Fat Pig Farm is shutting the doors on its tourism offering, The Cannery is closed awaiting a new buyer, but visitors still flock here looking for a different lifestyle.

As well as the cool-climate wines, artisan ciders and scallop pies, there are small villages with gourmet cafes, hidden beaches, arts and crafts trails, and myriad musical events, including the annual Cygnet Folk Festival that brings thousands of people into the region. Other annual festivals include the Huon Show, A Taste of the Huon, the Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival, and Handmade in Cygnet. Every weekend there is a produce market in one of the hamlets; Franklin one week, Judbury the next.

Visitors learn that in secret spots they can pull mussels and oysters straight from the water, fish for river trout or buy ciders from the same orchard shed in which the apples were processed. (In the 1950s apples were sea-freighted from here to Britain and the Huon was the biggest producer in Australia.)

For gourmands, long-time favourites include Home Hill Winery, an award-winning producer of pinot and home to an excellent vineyard restaurant, and Masaaki's Sushi, a little eatery operated by Japanese chef Masaaki Koyama in the former timber town of Geeveston. Willie Smith's Apple Shed, Frank's Cider and Pagan Cider headline the region's reputation for artisan ciders.

Kate Hill Wines outside Huonville serves gourmet platters and offers views from the vines to the Hartz Mountains and the Sleeping Beauty peak, which can be capped with snow over the colder months.

So many options (see more in the breakout) that you might need to work it all off by taking the wilderness walk to South Cape Bay, where the Southern Ocean hits land. Or take the five-hour return trek to the summit of the Hartz Mountains, where the air is some of the cleanest in the world.

Check out The Little Seed, where you can have gourmet dinners delivered to your chalet overlooking the Huon River. See thelittleseed.com.au

In Cygnet, the Old Bank has three lovely B&B rooms in the centre of town while Port Cygnet House is a new self-contained home with water views. See cygnetoldbank.com.au, portcygnethouse.com.au

Two versions of Villa Talia - one on either side of the river - are popular with lovers of luxury. See villatalia.com.au

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CYGNET

In Cygnet, long-time favourite eateries the Red Velvet Lounge, The Old Bank and the Port Hole Cafe offer tempting local tastes, and over the past few years new gourmet offerings have emerged nearby. Just outside town you will find a roadside cabin that is home to Ashcraig Farm. This organic fruit and vegetable farm sells produce to several of Tasmania's top eateries, but it is also home to a Thai restaurant that draws in locals and those in the know. With a chef from Isan (known for its spicy chili-accented food), Ashcraig offers a little taste of Asia in the bush.

Explore more: redvelvetlounge.com.au; cygnetoldbank.com.au; facebook.com/theportholecafe; phone (03) 6295 1901 for Ashcraig Farm

FRANKLIN

Franklin, a small village on the banks of the Huon River, is home to two unlikely destination eateries: the Osteria at PettySessions Italian restaurant lists local farmers who provide its ingredients on a blackboard of honour. Cinnamon and Cherry (pictured), meanwhile, is a small cafe specialising in gourmet treats from Turkey and the Middle East. Think warm Turkish bread and a substantial range of Middle Eastern dips, or just pop in for Turkish coffee.

Explore more: facebook.com/osteriapettysessions; facebook.com/cinnamonandcherry

GEEVESTON

Geeveston also has an impressive Old Bank eatery, Masaaki's Sushi, and an old-school sweet shop known as The Wall of Lollies. A more recent arrival is Harvest and Light, a unique space that is the brainchild of microbiologist and research scientist Cassy Faux. It is a small batch-pickle and condiment producer, a wine bar, a snack spot, and a photographic gallery all in one.

Explore more: harvestandlight.com.au

HUONVILLE

In the main town of Huonville, recent arrivals include the Lost Captain restaurant and Jin's Kitchen Korean eatery. They join the likes of Ds Cafe and Alternative Japanese eatery.

Explore more: lostcaptain.com.au; jins.kitchen.huon@gmail.com; phone (03) 6264 1226 for Ds Cafe; facebook.com/AlternativeJapaneseRestaurant