Wheel life: A cycling spectacular on New Zealand's latest Great Ride

By the third turn, most people on "normal" bikes have dismounted and are pushing their metallic steeds uphill. For those of us on e-bikes, the climb has been a welcome challenge, a chance to expend a bit more effort in an attempt to work off last night's indulgent dinner, but not so much that we can't still look around and admire the scenery.

"It's a game-changer on the climbs isn't it?" says an enthusiastic English e-biker I get chatting to at the top. "It means you're still smiling at the summit rather than coughing your lungs up."

Surprisingly, only four of our group of 14 have chosen e-bikes for this guided trip with Adventure South (although, one more person upgrades midway). Which presents us e-bikers with a tricky etiquette conundrum. What does one say when you glide past a sweat-drenched, heavy-breathing comrade who's labouring up a hill under his or her own steam? Do you smile? Wave? Whistle Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah? I quickly learn that whistling is not appreciated.

Today's cycle along the Lake Dunstan trail is the region's scenic superstar. Opened in May 2021, the 55-kilometre track through Cromwell Gorge has about 450 metres of cantilevered wooden boardwalk that's bolted directly into the vertiginous rock face. Footage of people cycling a few metres above the striking, teal-coloured lake soon went viral on social media and locked-down Kiwis flocked there in droves. Authorities had hoped for around 8000 visitors during the first year. The actual number was more than 80,000. In May 2022, the trail was named New Zealand's newest Great Ride.

While there are a couple of tough climbs along the way, the views more than make up for it. Numerous lookouts allow you to stop and admire the sweeping vistas back down the flooded gorge, which was created when the Clyde Dam was completed in 1992. And, of course, what goes up, must come down. So there are also plenty of grin-inducing descents - long, snaking downhills where the wind tugs tears from your eyes and puts a smile in your soul.

Although the Lake Dunstan section of the ride has garnered the most attention, many of the other trails we tackle are equally impressive. After departing Queenstown on day one, we cycle along the shoreline of Lake Wakatipu, through stands of silver birch on a gravel trail lined with bright purple agapanthus. On the way to the famous Kawarau Bridge (home of AJ Hackett's original bungy jump), the views of the snow-dusted Remarkables mountain range are so distractingly splendid, it's a wonder none of us ends up in a hedge.

In fact, every day delivers a generous serve of South Island majesty. On day two, we skirt the peak-flanked shoreline of Lake Wanaka before following the improbably blue Hawea River towards Lake Hawea, another gin-clear aquatic playground popular with kayakers, paddleboarders and waterskiers.

Departing from the small town of Lawrence on day four, we join the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail, which gently climbs up to the 434-metre-long Big Hill Tunnel before entering Beaumont Gorge, a dramatic valley carved by the mighty Clutha River.

The imposing Roxburgh Dam marks the end of the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail and the start of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, which plunges into yet another spectacularly scenic steep-sided valley that's still dotted with the remnants of the gold rush that lured thousands of hopeful miners to the region in the 1860s.

We learn more about this during an entertaining jet boat transfer from Shingle Creek to Doctors Point, a 13-kilometre section of the gorge that remains inaccessible by bike. Skipper Laurence van der Eb points out the crumbling remains of the miners' simple stone huts and provides an insight into how brutally harsh life would have been, particularly during winter when temperatures in the valley regularly plunge below zero. No wonder the authorities turned a blind eye to the opium dens set up by the large influx of Chinese miners. As van der Eb says, "You would have needed something to survive here."

Apart from one American, our group of 14 is a mix of Aussies and Kiwis. Shepherding us around the region are two delightful guides, Fi and Emma, who take it in turns to cycle while the other one drives the bus containing our luggage. Each day we rendezvous for morning and afternoon tea, where there's freshly brewed coffee plus a lavish spread of fruit, nuts and chocolate bars. If at any point someone starts to feel a little saddle weary, they can simply jump on the bus for the remainder of the day. Lunches are mostly ordered in advance from nearby cafes and enjoyed alfresco during leisurely trailside picnics. Three of the four evening meals are included and are eaten as a group in a local pub or restaurant.

If there's one downside to being on an e-bike, it's that it's more difficult to justify finishing the hearty servings that are a hallmark of South Island cuisine. But somehow I manage. In the name of research, I selflessly polish off succulent steaks, towering piles of ribs and an extravagant range of desserts, from a decadent chocolate medley at the Lake Bar in Wanaka to a delicious lemon drizzle cake in the Merchant of Clyde cafe. And, of course, given we're in Central Otago, it would be remiss not to sample some of the region's excellent pinots.

Along the way, we stay in a variety of accommodation, from clean, functional motels through to character-filled historic B&Bs. On more than one occasion I almost forget to plug in my bike's battery to charge overnight, which no doubt would have delighted my non-e-bike riding comrades. Thankfully, I never have to discover what irritating ditty they would have chosen to whistle while effortlessly gliding past me.

One of the most appealing parts of this trip is that it not only visits the well-known tourist hubs of Queenstown and Wanaka, but it also explores some of the region's less-heralded towns and villages. Such as Arrowtown, once the centre of the area's 1860s gold rush, which now boasts an attractive main street of historic timber-fronted stores, a cluster of original miner's cottages and a restored Chinese settlement of thatched stone huts.

We also pass through the Cromwell Heritage Precinct, a village of renovated gold rush-era buildings that were saved when the town's main street was flooded by the completion of the Clyde Dam.

During the drive between Arrowtown and Wanaka, we stop briefly at the Cardrona Hotel, an elegant weatherboard property built in 1863, which claims to be one of New Zealand's oldest inns. No doubt luring an equal number of tourists is the nearby Cardrona Bra Fence, a controversial attraction that started with a few bras strung up in 1998 and has now blossomed to thousands of undergarments fluttering in the breeze. Nicknamed Bradrona, there's now a donation box with proceeds going to breast cancer research.

In the picturesque town of Clyde, we stay in the historic Dunstan House, a handsome, heritage-listed stone property built in 1900 that has a sweeping, hand-carved kauri staircase. On the town's main street are more 20th-century landmarks, including an old post office and several stone cottages. Thanks to the combination of an enviable micro-climate and fertile alluvial soil, the surrounding terrain is ideal for growing fruit, particularly cherries, apricots and grapes. During a visit to Clyde Village Vineyard one afternoon, we enjoy some of the region's spoils during a wine and cheese tasting. Highlights include an easy drinking 2014 pinot gris paired with blue cheese topped with pear paste and a spicy 2016 pinot noir matched with an NZ edam and homemade plum chutney. Heroically, I still manage to devour an enormous plate of fish and chips in the atmospheric Post Office Cafe and Bar that evening for dinner.

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What sets this tour apart from the other multi-day biking trips I've done is the variety. The distance cycled each day ranges from 37 to 58 kilometres but the scenic diversity is astonishing. One minute, we're snaking through a dense forest of pine trees, the next we're high above a raging, mouthwash blue river. We're rarely far from water - whether it be a lake, river or stream - which means there are plenty of opportunities for a refreshing dip after lunch or afternoon tea. And the region's dramatic snow-dusted mountain ranges give many of our rides a mesmerising, movie set-like backdrop.

Along the way, we pass beneath the draped boughs of weeping willows, weave through corridors of pampas-like toetoe grass and are engulfed by fragrant clouds of wild thyme. We share the trails with rabbits, butterflies and countless birds, and skirt fields of grazing cows, alpacas and sheep. There are stunning riverfront mansions and dilapidated tin-roofed shacks; historic clapboard stores and colossal concrete dams. We observe nature in its wildest, purest form, plus humankind's often heavy-handed attempts to tame and control it.

In short, it's a glorious five-day romp through some of the country's most spectacular landscapes. And I don't mind admitting that I enjoy it all the more for having some mechanical assistance. While two of us admire the mountainous views from the top of a hill one day, patiently waiting for the rest of the group to push their bikes up, my companion turns to me and says with a wry smile, "Thank goodness for e-bikes."

Rob McFarland travelled as a guest of Tourism New Zealand and Adventure South.

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies non-stop from Sydney to Queenstown four times a week and via Auckland on the remaining three days. See airnewzealand.com.au

Touring there: Adventure South's five-day Lake Dunstan Trail and 3 Gorges trip runs between September and May. Starting and ending in Queenstown, the tour includes four nights' accommodation, most meals, full vehicle support and a $NZ10 ($9) contribution to the Central Otago Queenstown Trail Network Trust. Guests can bring their own bike or hire one for $NZ150 ($NZ500 for an e-bike). Prices from $NZ2695 per person. See adventuresouth.co.nz

Explore more: newzealand.com; central