Discover starry skies and wartime secrets in outback Queensland

While we often gravitate towards the coast and beach holidays, there's something incredibly restorative about spending time in the outback - a mental and physical re-set away from all but natural distractions.

Instead of a morning alarm, there's the sweet chirruping of tree martins and the soprano chatter of the songlark; the traffic-choked school run replaced by a family walk along the gum-fringed river as the sun burns the mist off the water. There's rust-coloured earth underfoot and cloudless blue to the horizon and swimming in waterholes; stargazing replacing screen-watching.

A 750-kilometre drive west of Brisbane, in the heart of Mulga country on the Warrego River, historic Charleville is the ideal destination for an inspiring introduction to the outback, with hands-on lessons in history, fauna, geology and the tales, tall and true, of local larrikins.

No matter that it took chocolate to bring the plight of the bilby to Australia's attention, as an alternative to the Easter bunny - that recognition supports the good work being done by Save the Bilby Fund, which manages one of the largest bilby breeding programs in Australia, ensuring the survival of this endangered mammal.

As they are nocturnal animals, the Bilby Experience reverses the bilbies' circadian rhythm through controlled lighting, turning day to night, so you can see them at their most active.

The tour explains bilby behaviour and what it's hoped to achieve with their breeding and release program. And of course you get to see this cutest of furry mammals up close. savethebilbyfund.org.au

If yours are city kids, they've probably never seen night skies like these. They'll love the drama of the moment the roof rolls back at The Cosmos Centre to reveal the night sky.

Knowledgeable guides impart their own and Indigenous interpretation of the constellations, with the Meade telescopes giving everyone the opportunity to look at star clusters 16,000 light years into space, as well as planets and nebulae. You might even spot a satellite tracking across the night sky. cosmoscentre.com

Kids and parents will both appreciate this tour, taking in the remains of a secret American World War II base where 3500 army air force personnel were stationed - with locals sworn to secrecy. There are some fascinating (and funny) stories, as you're guided around the remains of the old buildings (BYO vehicle), from dance hall to mess hall, shower block and a highly top secret weapon housed in an innocuous-looking tiny building, so important it had a round-the-clock guard. There's also a "Secret Base" hangar with self-guided interactive displays. experiencecharleville.com.au

The heritage-listed Hotel Corones is a Charleville landmark. Its first owner, Harry Corones came from the Greek island of Kythira, arriving in Charleville in 1909 where he worked as a fruiterer before becoming a hotel licensee of the Charleville Hotel until it burned down. The eccentric Harry then built this grand hotel that played host to everyone from famous aviators to royalty and politicians. The tour is given by the great-great grand-daughter of the builder, who tells amusing stories about guests and ghosts and the infamous Harry as well as showing areas of the hotel not open to the public. hotelcorones.com.au

Younger kids will be intrigued to learn that it's not just a matter of driving to the doctor (or dentist) for patients in remote outback communities.

Out at Charleville's air base (you may even be lucky enough to see one of the Royal Flying Doctors Service planes train off or landing), in a hangar that was once used by the Americans stationed here, are displays of equipment and information about the history of the RFDS.

You can even listen in on a recording of a typical call that might be received by the RFDS. flyingdoctor.org.au

Getting there: Charleville is a straightforward eight-hour drive west of Brisbane. The town of Miles, which is halfway, is a convenient stop.

Staying there: There are plenty of options, from farmstays to camping grounds. Rooms at Hotel Corones (hotelcorones.com.au), either in the old section or newer attached motel-style accommodation, cost between $90-$350 a night. The Rocks Motel (rocksmotel.com.au) has modern, comfortable rooms from $179 a night, including a family room with kitchenette and (hurrah!) a swimming pool.

Where to eat and drink: The best coffee in town is at Charlotte's Nest on Galatea Street. Pies, wraps, rolls and sweet treats can be found at Heinemann's Country Bakery. The bistro at Hotel Corones does typical pub fare. On the Rocks Restaurant (at the motel of the same name) has a contemporary menu and is probably the fanciest place in town.

Explore more: experiencecharleville.com.au

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