Hotel Review: Capella Sydney is a stylish vision in sandstone

Australia has some outstanding luxury lodges in incredible remote locations, but urban hospitality Down Under can leave a lot to be desired. Until Now. High-end Asian hotel group Capella has just transformed two gorgeous sandstone buildings dating back to the early 1900s in the Sydney CBD into a $300 million lair, with lashings of character and history, gobsmacking interior design and - importantly - faultless service.

The two buildings in question once housed the departments of education and agriculture, and arriving at the hotel is not hassle-free if you're driving. We had to go around the block to be on the right side of Loftus Street to access the hotel's impeccably dressed and eloquent valet. But if you're not driving, approaching the property's stunning Edwardian baroque facade - complete with a grand entrance that still says in timeless golden letters "Department of Agriculture" - on Farrer Place is a sheer delight. In contrast, the "Capella" signage is so discreet you could walk past the hotel without even realising it's there. It's just one example of the group's highly considerate reimagining of the property.

Old world meets cutting-edge modernity at every turn at Capella, without the two ever being at odds with one other. Soaring new works by Indigenous artist Judy Watson framed in original directory boards at the entrance are one example. The kinetic Meadow sculpture that opens and closes like flowers in the century-old courtyard, now home to Aperture eatery, is another.

First, the bad news. In a city renowned for hotels with harbour views, there are hardly any sea vistas at this 192-room establishment. In fact, the Skyline Suite I am staying in is more of a "skyscraper suite". But this is a place that looks inward - at mesmerising artworks and ceiling lights that dominate the living area, and dozens of hand-picked coffee-table books and objets d'art that give the bedroom a cozy yet elegant feel. And this is a hotel that spoils you with creature comforts: touch-sensitive carpets that switch on soft light in the bathroom when you step on them in the middle of the night; ensuites that impress with twin sinks and oversized bathtubs; and smart Toto toilets that spring open as you approach them. Am I missing the water views? Not a chance.

Soak up next-level opulence at McRae Bar with a cocktail under the enormous lighting installation, lovingly referred to as "Elton's scarf" by the staff. Then arrive at Brasserie 1930, which earned two hats within two weeks of opening. Overseen by Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt of Bentley Restaurant Group, it does a fine trade in French fare - from spanner crab in sea urchin sauce to butter-soft whole roasted duck.

Read more on Explore:

A stay at Capella includes immersive journeys aimed at giving guests a real sense of place. Wander through the Rocks with Indigenous speaker Aunty Margaret on Tuesday mornings to discover the land's timeless ties with First Nations people, or jump in a Mercedes van on Saturday morning for a two-hour excursion at the Carriageworks Farmers Market with an in-house gourmand. Just don't forget to set aside some time for the hotel's beyond-stunning swimming pool on level six.

The hotel's highly informed "culturists" (aka concierges) can take you on a tour of the building, pointing out period details and sharing anecdotes that'll stay with you long after you check out.

Where: 24 Loftus Street, Sydney, NSW

How much: From $750 per room per night

Explore more: capellahotels.com

Akash Arora was a guest of Capella Sydney.