Relaxed fine-dining on California's Mammoth Mountain

You know you're in for a treat even before you enter Mammoth Mountain's hottest new eatery, Vulcania. Located just metres from the Californian ski town's main gondola, the welcoming glow of a neon sign beckons through the glass front door with the promise of something special: this restaurant is the work of the legendary Voltaggio brothers.

Both big names in their own right in the US culinary scene, celebrity chefs Michael and Bryan Voltaggio bring a swag of accolades to their new venture (including a Michelin star). They're also household names in the US, thanks to television appearances that include the Food Network's Battle of the Brothers series where the pair mentor impressive up-and-comers.

Once inside, the glowing continues. A spectacular backlit quartz bar dominates the centre of the room, drawing in visitors like moths to a flame on their way past the welcoming waft of the pizza oven.

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Somehow, despite the celebrity allure, the vibe is chilled and buzzy. Waiters with wind-whipped faces glide through the throng with large trays of food held aloft on boards. Laughter echoes off the hard surfaces as groups perched on stools around high tables relive the day's exploits from the slopes. For the menu the brothers lean heavily into their Italian heritage and give it a modern twist - the Italian spicy tuna entree arrives on the plate like an elegant crown, edged with prawn crackers. I arrogantly assume the funghi pizza topped with "hay" must be a typo (surely they meant ham?). It arrives with an intoxicating crunch of mushroom hay strands.

Well fed, we pause by the pizza oven on our way out as the maitre d' wanders over for a chat. Despite the whirl of activity around us, there's still time to discuss the forecast and his tips for which slopes to hit first in the morning. Vulcania might be a slick new drawcard in town, but it knows why it's there. mammothmountain.com