Rembrandt has come to Melbourne: Here's where to eat, drink and stay

The soaring light-flooded atrium of the National Gallery of Victoria looks like an airport when I arrive there - it's that busy. And that's a good thing. It's a sign of an incredible city in love with an incredible art institution putting on some incredible shows.

Take, for instance, Rembrandt: True to Life (until September 10). The most comprehensive showcase of the Dutch master's work in Australia in more than a quarter of a century, the exhibition features 110 etchings, 10 drawings and nine paintings. As you walk into the exhibition space, take a few moments to examine a minuscule self-portrait of Rembrandt, dating back to 1630. It's the first exhibit at the ambitious show but easy to miss.

"At 5cm x 4.5cm, it's way smaller than even the Mona Lisa, but it's a very significant work," Petra Kayser - the curator of the exhibition - tells me as part of a private preview of the show. "It shows a very young and somewhat smug Rembrandt at the age of 24, looking into the mirror and practising facial expressions." That self-portrait is a stark contrast to the one that features towards the end of the exhibition. On loan from the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, the haunting artwork shows a 53-year-old artist with deep-set eyes, three years after he went bankrupt.

But Rembrandt is not the only big name drawing big crowds at the gallery this winter. Exuberant artworks by Pierre Bonnard - a close friend of Matisse - are also on display at the NGV (until October 8). Indeed, it's a great time to head to the cultural capital of Australia. Just don't forget to take this guide on the hottest new places to stay, eat and drink while you're there.

WALLET-FRIENDLY - LANEWAYS BY OVOLO: The entry-level rooms may be a bit small at this Memphis-inspired recently revamped boutique hotel, located on the CBD's Little Bourke Street, but they are big on design. Think splashes of bright mustards, ensuites with bold tiles and rugs in psychedelic patterns matched with equally eye-catching cushions. Free welcome "loot bags" containing snacks such as chips and chocolate bars, a complimentary lolly bar in the lobby and self-service laundry further sweeten the deal. Rooms from $250 per night; ovolohotels.com

AFFORDABLE FIVE-STAR - LE MERIDIEN: Hiding behind a 1950s art deco facade, only a few steps from Parliament House, Le Meridien impresses at first sight with a luminous modern lobby inspired by the history of its site - deep green velvet curtains behind the reception desk and cinema-style menu boards at the lobby cafe are a nod to the theatre that once stood here. Upstairs the guest rooms are just as decadent, with wood-panelled feature walls and work desks in rich honey tones. The piece de resistance, however, is the rooftop pool with views of Parliament House and the spires of St Patricks Cathedral beyond. That and the subterranean Dolly restaurant, with gleaming booths, spiral staircases and glamorous columns, where chef Christian Graebner is impressing diners with courses like smoked venison with macadamia cream and scallops with kumquat jam. Rooms from $359 per night; marriott.com

ALL-OUT LUXE - THE RITZ-CARLTON: The Ritz-Carlton keeps its cards close to its chest. You have to walk through its soaring foyer with enormous artworks and take the elevator to the 80th-floor lobby, before it reveals its ace: 360-degree views of Melbourne and beyond. Views that never really leave you, no matter where you are: at the hotel's fine-diner Atria, the Cameo bar, the swimming pool on level 64 or in one of its 257 no-expense-spared rooms. Even my bathtub has skyline vistas. Want to turn up the luxe factor? Upgrade to a Club room to get access to the hotel's lounge on the 79th floor that'll spoil you with even more views, not to mention oysters and champagne come sunset. Rooms from $650 per night; ritzcarlton.com

BREAKFAST - THE TERRACE: Located in the tranquil Royal Botanic Gardens, with views of the Ornamental Lake, the newly opened Terrace is the talk of Melbourne, and not just for its setting. Part of the Darling Group, which has given the Victorian capital some of its most loved eateries (from Top Paddock to Kettle Black), the bright and airy cafe with floor-to-ceiling windows is serving up breakfast favourites with a slant - smashed avo with roast-carrot hummus, say, or eggs benedict with potato rosti. theterrace.melbourne/cafe

Also try: The high-ceilinged Higher Ground, by the same group in the CBD, with dishes such as chilli-spiked scrambled eggs, is a reliable option, if you don't want to steer too far from the city. highergroundmelbourne.com.au

LUNCH - GARDEN RESTAURANT: NGV's Garden Restaurant is an elegant establishment at any time of the year - its vast windows flooding the dining room with natural light as well as affording views of outdoor installations such as Temple of Boom. Now is a particularly good time to book a table. In a rare collaboration with renowned chef Annie Smithers, the restaurant is offering a French farmhouse menu to coincide with the Pierre Bonnard exhibition (until October 8). Expect French classics such as beef bourguignon and confit duck leg. ngv.vic.gov.au

Also try: Want to turn up the glam quotient? Make a beeline for the spanking-new Royce Hotel, with striking art deco-inspired interiors. Settle down at the Showroom Bar with acres of gleaming mirror and marble, then let chef Pawan Dutta enthral you with dishes like slow-braised beef cheeks and sous vide chicken. Roycehotel.com.au

DINNER - ALT PASTA BAR: You really have to be in the know to find this compact, atmospheric eatery in the heart of the CBD. Hidden behind a nondescript entrance, on a laneway completely bereft of life, ALT (which stands for alternative) is giving classic Italian a Korean inflection. Taste it in the seaweed-laced pappardelle, hollandaise with a hint of miso and lasagne with pickled walnuts. altpastabar.com.au

Also try: Even if you're not staying at Laneways by Ovolo, it's worth dropping in at the hotel's gastro taphouse Amphlett House, where chef Ian Curley is serving up memorable mains such as seared beef heart with creamed spinach. ovolohotels.com

Read more on Explore:

Entry to the Rembrandt: True to Life exhibition is $10 for children and $25 for adults, while entry to the Pierre Bonnard: Designed by India Mahdavi exhibition is from $11 for children and $33 for adults.

Explore more: ngv.vic.gov.au

The writer travelled courtesy of Visit Victoria.