Why Doha is a stopover with staying power

What's your final destination?" the man asks me as I check in my luggage. "Doha is my final destination," I tell him. "Really?" he says. I have the exact same conversation with the flight attendant as I am boarding the plane. Qatar is not a top-of-the-list destination for Australians. It's a stopover on the way to Europe. Apart from last year's FIFA men's World Cup, you might wonder what the point of actually visiting this small Arabian Gulf country is.

But the fact is, even if it isn't the final destination, Qatar offers a singularly different stopover experience for the traveller who is ready to stay a few days rather than stare at the inside of an airport for a few hours. It's not just the sparkly streets of Doha that await; there are great places to visit in the middle of the desert, too.

Qatar's magnificent wealth, powered by natural gas and oil, has seen it grow exponentially over recent years, bolstered by the country's need to develop its tourism market ahead of the World Cup. Point to almost anything new and shiny in Qatar - and there's lots to choose from - and a guide will tell you what probably should have been obvious. "Yes, that was built for the World Cup," they say.

During my visit, just over three months after the end of the event, Qatar was still holding onto the buzz of the game and marketing for the cup remained everywhere. The event clearly reshaped Doha, accelerated development and drew a global gaze to the desert nation. Its selection to host the World Cup was controversial but in the afterglow, that's a conversation people tend to avoid.

Lusail City is home to perhaps the nation's shiniest new buildings. Just north of Doha, the city was only developed over the past decade with most of the building occurring in the years just before the World Cup. Lusail Stadium is where the final was held.

The city comes alive at night. At its centre is a whale shark installation suspended between four buildings. The whale shark lights up and looks spectacular against the four soaring skyscrapers which are themselves illuminated in blue lights. Also in Lusail is the Place Vendome, a luxury shopping mall featuring high-end brands that opened last year and cost more than $1 billion to build. Even if you are not into shopping, its opulence alone is worth a look. A sprawling fountain at the mall's centre erupts into an hourly "dancing water fountain" show from 7pm to 11pm, set to music including the Game of Thrones theme.

While the cities of Qatar are filled with glitzy new skyscrapers, there are also places offering more down-to-earth experiences. Take the Heenat Salma Farm, an eco-farm just a half-hour drive from Doha; a true oasis in the desert. Heenat Salma was established in 2019 and used to be a conventional farm. Over the four years it has been transformed into a farm focused on pursuing holistic methods for agriculture, architecture and community development. It is a collective and promotes communal living for the 80 or so people who call it home. Visitors can also stay at the farm in luxury eco-lodges from October to March. (It is closed in the summer months due to the searing heat.) The farm grows an enormous variety of fruit, herbs and vegetables, and they are lovingly cooked into delicious meals which are served in its restaurant. Heenat Salma's main farmhouse is at the heart of the place. It's a striking white building which stands out in the desert landscape. Visitors can also partake in a range of activities such as yoga and ceramic classes.

Another escape from Doha is a desert safari. Book a trip through 365 Adventures and go afternoon sand-bashing in a 4WD - it's a fun adventure with the ultimate reward of seeing the sun set behind the dunes. The desert meets the sea at the Al Majles Resort, an ideal spot to stop and soak in the scenery. Enjoy a delicious traditional madfoon, which is meat cooked in an underground hole and served with rice.

Back in the city, there are plenty of attractions on offer for those who may only have one day to spare in the country. Head for the B12 Beach Club in Doha's West Bay, which has a $20 fee but once inside there are lounges to lay on and enjoy a good book, plus you can order food and drinks - including alcoholic ones which can be hard to come by in Qatar as the Islamic country has strict controls on its sale. Unlike other public beaches in Doha, women are also able to wear bikinis here. There are also water sports on offer and a giant aqua park.

For a deep dive into the history of Qatar, head for the National Museum of Qatar. It takes you on a journey starting more than 700 million years ago, when most of the country's peninsula was under water, to the modern-day nation. If the history is not of interest, the museum building alone is worth a look for its incredible architecture. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, it's a great white edifice rising out of the ground with precarious angles modelled on the "desert rose" mineral crystal.

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The museum is built around an old palace of the Al Thani Qatari royal family, which served as their home and the seat of government in the early 20th century. The Souq Waqif is also a must-see: the marketplace is where culture comes alive and is perhaps one of the only places in the city which is an ode to old Qatar.

There's no denying that Doha has been outshone for many years as a stopover destination by nearby cities such as Dubai. But travellers may be pleasantly surprised by this country, which is more than just a place where a major soccer tournament was held.

Getting there: Qatar Airways flies from Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney. See qatarairways.com

Staying there: Dusit Doha Hotel in West Bay has rooms from $138 a night. See dusit.com/dusitdoha-hotel

Explore more: visitqatar.com

Lucy Bladen travelled courtesy of Qatar Tourism.