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Why India's City of Joy is stealing the culinary spotlight

By Sudeshna Ghosh
Updated July 3 2023 - 11:03am, first published June 23 2023 - 1:00pm

As the cuisine of India's City of Joy gets global attention, Sudeshna Ghosh rediscovers her hometown through a culinary lens.

I'm sitting with a feast in front of me, a gleaming copper platter laden with 12 courses of traditional Bengali delicacies... aromas wafting off fresh luchi (fluffy deep fried flatbreads) that were born to be enjoyed with a subtly sweet chhola dal (lentils with coconut), while a batter-fried sliver of mango fish balances delicately off the small bowls arranged around the plate holding delicacies like aloo posto (poppy seeds with potatoes), bhetki paturi (fish in a piquant mustard sauce baked in banana leaf), daab chingri (prawns in a coconut sauce), mutton kosha (melt-off-the-bone slow-cooked lamb curry) and mishti doi (sweet yoghurt)...

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