On her first trip overseas, our writer finds herself in the middle of a fairytale. With skis on.
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A group of young kids zoom past on skis. They can't be more than five years old, but they make it look easy. I can't even stand up on mine. My instructor tells me they pick it up quickly because they lack fear. I think that's because they're tiny and don't have far to fall.
I have done a little bit of that... the falling, that is. But luckily for me, I'm in Park City in Utah and I'm falling on The Greatest Snow on Earth. Yes, it's literally trademarked that. The region has also experienced the best snowfall in decades.
I don't have lots of first-hand experience of snow, but this snow does seem pretty great. Park City's high elevation and low humidity make for powdery dry snow, perfect for skiing.
While I'm taking a little break from all that falling over - ahem - skiing, I'm contemplating a question I was asked a lot when I mentioned my upcoming holiday: "Why on Earth are you going skiing in Utah?" It's a fair question given it's on the other side of the world and it would be my first time overseas, but it spoke more to my distinct lack of prowess on the snow slopes than it did about the fair state of Utah. It would be the first time I'd seen snow, let alone skied on it.
At the time, I wasn't quite sure why myself. But sitting here on a snow-covered mountain on a gorgeous bluebird day, the answers trip over themselves.
For a start, Park City is stunningly beautiful. it's a winter wonderland straight out of the pages of a fairy tale. Snow lays heavy on the branches of trees, lit up at night by fairy lights. It coats the rooftops like layers of icing on a gingerbread house. The Wasatch Mountains have a vastness that takes your breath away. It is spectacular.
The Lodges at Deer Valley Resort only enhances the fairy tale - it's an old-style Alpine resort with huge stone fireplaces and a hot tub to warm you up after a day spent outdoors.
It's the little things that make your stay memorable - you'll get breakfast and complimentary transport to wherever you want to go in Park City, and ski shuttles will take you to the Snow Park day lodge, where your ski day begins.
The slopes are immaculately groomed and are some of the most renowned in the world. It's where Olympic and World Cup champions have been crowned, and where the rich and famous come to play.
But it's also a really great place for a complete novice to learn to ski.
While there are plenty of Black Diamond runs to keep even the most hardcore skier happy, Deer Valley Resort, which is ski-only, has excellent instructors to help you get on your feet. And once you've mastered the chopsticks, the french fries and the penguin, there are Green runs for novices up the mountain so you're not left behind.
Even better, if you get worn out before your friends do, there are some great places to relax and refuel.
Ski right to the door of the Royal Street Cafe at Silver Lake Lodge for some fantastic on-mountain dining. Or, for an experience you'll be raving about for years, book in for a luxurious meal in one of Stein Eriksen Lodge's Alpenglobes. Sitting in a clear dome surrounded by snow, with panoramic views of Deer Valley, amazing food and a multimillion-dollar wine cellar to choose from, might just be my new favourite way to spend a day.
And, a pre-dinner horse-drawn sleigh ride, followed by Swiss raclette at Fireside in Empire Canyon Lodge high up in the mountains, might be my favourite way to spend an evening. The famous melted cheese dish cooks over one of the giant fireplaces, and roasts, stews, and fondue cook over the other three.
It's as amazing as it sounds.
If you prefer snowboarding over skiing, or you like both, then pop over to Park City Mountain, the largest ski resort in the USA. About a 20-minute drive away, it's a bit busier here, but there are plenty of slopes to choose from and excellent instructors. And while you're there, you should consider a stay at YotelPad. It's within walking distance of lifts to take you up the mountain, and is so modern, there's even a QR code to help you find your bed.
It maximises space by using beds that fold away into cupboards, but has plenty of space and kitchen facilities for families who want to prepare meals in their room. There's also a complimentary games room for the kids, and modular work spaces for rent if you need to attend to urgent tasks.
Apres ski smorgasbord
Park City is a quirky mix of old west charm, Swedish ski finesse, and celebrity hotspot. It was once a silver mining town, before it became a renowned ski resort. It is also the home of the Sundance Film Festival.
A walk down the town's historic Main Street is fascinating.
Old west-style saloons beckon with promises of local brews, and art galleries display an eclectic mix of local treasures. Native American outlets are worth a visit and a trip to the Park City Museum is a great way to learn about the town's history.
Snow coats the rooftops like layers of icing on a gingerbread house.
Drop in to No Name Saloon for a world-famous buffalo burger, pick up a coffee at Atticus or, if you are hankering for a flat white, check out Harvest, which is Aussie-owned. The Bridge Cafe and Grill is close to the town chairlift, making it the perfect spot to stop off for breakfast, lunch, appetisers or drinks. One of Park City's newest restaurants, Pinecone Ridge, also offers excellent contemporary American food.
There's a misconception that Utah is a dry state. While there are some differences to Australian laws, you won't be overly aware of restrictions in Park City. In fact, the town is home to some very good distilleries, like Alpine Distilling and High West.
For a relaxed afternoon try a gin-making masterclass with Alpine distiller Sara Sergent. While sipping on a cocktail made with her signature gin - the PG&T is deeeelicious - Sara weaves a magical tale of her moonshiner ancestors, and those of her husband, Rob.
Like an apothecarist of years gone by, Sara plucks jars from the shelves, unveiling the secrets of botanicals such as juniper, coriander and grains of paradise. She explains how just a pinch of this, and a pinch of that will combine to create a perfect drop of gin. While the careful selection of botanicals has helped Sara create her signature gin, I suggest it's another secret ingredient that won her the Gin of the Year 2021 gold medal at the World's Most Important Gin Competition - her passion.
A dash of Aussie inspiration
There's one lesson I've taken away with me in the pursuit of snowsport excellence, and it's inspired by another Aussie. It was in Utah in 2002 that Steven Bradbury skated his way into the history books when he remained the last man standing in the 1000-metre short course speed-skating final at the Salt Lake City Winter Olympics.
"Never give up" is the lesson, because there really is gold at the end of the journey.... even if it comes in the form of an Alpine gin.
So, when I'm asked the question now, is it worth travelling to the other side of the world for, the answer is a resounding yes! Park City will find a place in your heart.
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TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Qantas flies direct to Dallas from Sydney and Melbourne, and to Los Angeles from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. Fly to Salt Lake City with American Airlines, and Canyon Transportation will take you the short 35-minute drive up into the mountains to Park City.
Staying there: At the Lodges at Deer Valley, queen-bed rooms cost about $US705 ($1100) a night during the high season.
At YotelPad Park City at Canyons Village, Park City Mountain Resort, rooms range from studios to three-bedroom apartments, with rates from $US394 a night for a room with a queen bed and bunks.
Skiing there: If you'd prefer not to lug ski gear around the world, you can rent it in Park City. Pants and jackets are available from Jans Sports, and Black Tie will come to your room to fit you out with skis, snowboards, and helmets. Lift tickets for one day are $US229, $US259 in holiday season. It's recommended to purchase lift tickets early and buy multiple days at a time - look at the Deer Valley International Pass, or a season pass. See deervalley.com
Explore more: www.visitparkcity.com.
The writer was a guest of Park City Chamber of Commerce/Convention & Visitors Bureau