Check into this dreamy escape in laid-back Chiang Mai

For hundreds of years, Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, which eventually became part of Siam and is now known as Thailand. Chiang Mai's Old City still retains its moat and many ancient walls and temples from this period. It's said that the land on which Tamarind Village is built was once the summer home of the royal family. Acclaimed Thai architect Ong-ard Satrabhandhu has leaned into Lanna design heritage to create a resort that feels like it could be from an earlier, gentler time. A 200-year-old tamarind tree in the courtyard gives the hotel its name.

Satrabhandhu knows how to make an entrance. From the street, guests walk along a well-lit, bamboo-canopied path to enter the hotel's moat-like gate. This stepping from the outside to inside creates an instantly noticeable vibe shift from bustling hub to hushed tranquillity. That the street is one of the busiest and most central in Chiang Mai - especially on Sunday evenings when the sprawling Walking Night Market draws thousands of people - makes the relaxed hotel ambience all the more remarkable. If possible, plan to avoid arriving or departing on Sundays, when traffic is blocked off. At all other times, guests will enjoy the convenience of the central Old City address. The hotel is surrounded by shops, cafes and spas offering excellent Thai massage for under $10 per hour.

Lanna chic. Expect to see sheer mosquito nets draped over the bed ("Looks good in photos," says the room attendant when I ask if I should be worried about mozzies), embroidered hilltribe-made hats and lacquer boxes on the nightstand, traditional wooden door locks and a copper sink in the bathroom. Squint and you could imagine you've time-travelled back a couple of hundred years.

Cool and comfortable, but not particularly luxurious. The accommodations will appeal to those who enjoy elegant minimalism. There are five suites and 41 rooms, all with central air-conditioning, TV, bar fridge and WiFi. The tech amenities we've all come to expect in hotels are a bit light-on here, but it doesn't bother me as I don't even turn the TV on during my stay.

The hotel's signature restaurant, Ruen Tamarind, is one of Chiang Mai's best Thai dining destinations. Concierges from other hotels send guests there all the time, knowing they'll enjoy fabulous cuisine, excellent service and nightly acoustic music performances. Breakfast is a buffet of pastries, cereals, fruit and Thai dishes, plus a chef station turning out eggs, waffles and pancakes to order. I invite two Thai friends to join me for lunch one day. Our feast is one for the ages and the table is soon crowded with dishes including fermented tea leaves salad, sea bass with curry, shrimp pad Thai and more.

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If the weather's nice, spend some time at the hotel's lovely pool. There are plenty of deck chairs and lounges with umbrellas. Drinks and food can be ordered from the restaurant. Book ahead for the spa to ensure an appointment. Several times each week, hotel staff lead guests on a walking tour of nearby Buddhist temples and explain their historic significance. I took a private city tour with InsideAsia that took me to places I had never heard of, even though I lived in Chiang Mai for several years.

Heartfelt, gracious service is the Thai way, and guests here are in good hands.

Where: Tamarind Village, 50/1 Rajdamnoen Road, Chiang Mai, Thailand

How much: From $200 per room per night

Explore more: tamarindvillage.com

The writer was a guest of Tamarind Village and InsideAsia,