Why Cuisine Nicoise is more than just a famous salad

Nice is the largest city on the French Riviera, with the confidence to prove it. Proud of its history, particular culture and cuisine, this is a destination that proclaims it is different to other Cote D'Azur locales such as Cannes and St Tropez.

On a summer's evening walk around the old town, I see restaurant after restaurant displaying signs that promise "Cuisine Nicoise", food in the style of Nice. Such dishes are almost guaranteed to include tomatoes, anchovies, black olives and capers.

There will be a Salad Nicoise on the menu, a hearty mix of tuna, beans, hard-boiled eggs, potatoes and greens. Certainly a fish option (cod, bream and sea bass are popular) dressed in garlicky-lemony sauce. Perhaps a classic ratatouille or slow-cooked beef dish, simmered in red wine with onions, carrots and herbs.

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Like most big cities in Europe, Nice's food culture has been influenced lately by the influx of migrants arriving from many corners of the earth. It's almost impossible to get a reservation at Maido, a cosy spot serving inventive Japanese tapas, but worth trying your luck as a walk-in. Book well in advance to enjoy the South African culinary inspirations at Restaurant JAN, an intimate 20-seater space.

I ask the concierge at my oceanfront hotel to recommend a nearby restaurant with good food and a sunset view. He directs me to Renee on Promenade des Anglais, newly opened and already garnering rave reviews. There's terrific chablis by the glass and a tempting selection of dishes prepared by a former MasterChef Ukraine contestant who has relocated to France. Service is warmly endearing.

I order the fresh tuna crudo, gently drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Capers and sundried tomatoes add zing. It's so delicious, I go back the next evening and eat it all over again.