What's the best - and rather unexpected - way to uncover some of the most beautiful locations of Switzerland? Join a Bollywood tour, even if you've never seen an Indian movie.
The reason I have come to Switzerland is right in front of me: a bridge over a sparkling stream in the sleepy town of Saanen.
There's nothing even remotely interesting about this overpass with plain stainless steel railings.
Except for its name.
Many locals lovingly call it "Palat", which in Hindi means "turn".
And one more thing: there's a big poster from a 1990s Indian movie attached to one of its railings.
What in heaven's name is a bridge called Palat with a Bollywood poster doing in the middle of the Swiss Alps, you ask?
The answer will take us back to the 1980s in the Subcontinent when a filmmaker called Yash Chopra - India's answer to Baz Luhrmann - started creating movies which, while still set in the motherland, featured a few scenes filmed in astonishingly beautiful locations in Switzerland.
In one such movie, Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge or DDLJ (released in 1995 and directed by Chopra's son, Aditya), a boy falls in love with a girl - in Switzerland, of course. Standing on a bridge, he looks towards the girl who's walking away from him, and says to himself, "If she loves you, too, she'll turn around."
"Palat," he says, once. "Palat," he says again.
These scenes were Chopra's way of offering escapism to millions of theatre-goers in India, who couldn't afford to travel overseas and lived vicariously through celluloid.
Around the turn of the century, however, things changed. Almost a decade after the country opened to foreign investment, the Indian middle class started ballooning, with disposable income that allowed its people to travel internationally for the first time. And guess where they headed in droves?
To Palat bridge, of course. Because the girl in that scene - filmed right on this bridge - did indeed turn around. DDLJ was an instant hit, becoming at the time of its release, the biggest grossing Bollywood flick ever. In fact, according to the The New York Times, Maratha Mandir - a single-screen cinema in Mumbai - "has shown [that movie] nearly every day since 1995".
And tremors of the film's success can still be felt almost three decades later all the way in Switzerland, where a once nondescript bridge has transformed into a pop-culture mecca for thousands of people of the Indian diaspora (including this scribe), who still visit it as part of their Bollywood pilgrimage.
A piece of symphony
Palat bridge may not be unique, but thankfully for the "pilgrims" its location is a place of rare beauty. On one side of the overpass are the mountains - so steep and so high that there's no sign of vegetation on their peaks, just tenacious rock faces ablaze in the August heat today. On the other side is Saanen itself - a mesmerising tapestry of rolling hills, storybook chalets and churches with sky-piercing spires.
A five-minute drive away is Saanen's twin town, Gstaad. One of the country's fanciest ski destinations, it attracts a very well-heeled crowd from around the world in winter when it's covered in snow.
But it's peak summer today - 32 degrees with skies as blue as they can be - and Gstaad is shamelessly showing off everything that drew Chopra here in the first place: a charming town centre alive with church bells, cobblestoned streets winding their way through Bernese cottages and magnificent hotels perched on high hills.
When I create a Bollywood tour of Switzerland, I think of it as a piece of symphony, with a climax right at the end.
"This is Yash Chopra heartland," says my guide Erwin Fassler, as we soak up views of Saanen from a lookout a few minutes away from Palat bridge.
Born and based in Zurich, Erwin offers bespoke and a number of pre-set Bollywood tours of Switzerland in his comfortable Range Rover Evoque - from a two-day excursion that starts and ends in Zurich to a nine-hour experience called The King of Romance (referring, of course, to Chopra), which explores filming locations around Interlaken.
Even if you've never watched a Bollywood film, Erwin's tours are thoroughly enjoyable as they take you to some of the country's most stunning locations, hand-picked by Chopra himself. Because that's what the director, who died in 2012, did - scoured the length and breadth of Switzerland in search of the most romantic settings before the rest of the crew arrived.
Locations such as Saanen, where Erwin is currently pointing out key filming spots in every direction. That church was in that scene of that movie; that station is where that hero and heroine missed their train ... he rattles off, with reference pics of those scenes on his phone, in case I lose track.
He has a bone to pick with me, though. "When I create a Bollywood tour of Switzerland, I think of it as a piece of symphony, with a climax right at the end," he says.
This lookout in Saanen is often the "climax" of Erwin's Bollywood tours. But that didn't work for my itinerary, so I have ended up here at the start of my excursion. "Which means you may be disappointed with the other locations," he says worryingly.
He needn't be concerned, though, because our next stop - a lake lovingly referred to as (no points for guessing) the Yash Chopra lake - is just as bewitching.
About 20 minutes south of Gstaad, Lake Lauenen played a crucial role in Chopra's 1989 flick Chandni. As its surface - still like a sheet of mirror - reflected the towering mountains in high-pixel detail, one of Bollywood's most famous actresses, Sridevi (think of her as the Catherine Deneuve of India) performed a dance on its banks; her snow-white costume popping against the pea-green plains as the rising sun cast its first rays over the mountains.
As I approach the lake today with Erwin in tow, I'm dreading the number of tourists we'll have to elbow our way through because this is serious Bollywood territory. But when we arrive, I'm pleased to see only a handful of local families: some enjoying a picnic by the banks under the trees, others diving into the lake and shattering it into ripples.
After a few mandatory shots capturing the wobbly pier and a rowboat that has been chained to it for decades (and has therefore starred in many Bollywood films, including Chandni), we walk to a tiny eatery on a tiny hill next to the lake. There's just one staff member at the restaurant - an elderly lady who doesn't speak a word of English - and our table under a tree has wide-angle views. But it's the authentic Swiss fare here that truly takes the cake: kaseschnitte mit schinken und tomaten; or a loaf of white wine-infused bread covered in cheese, then baked and layered with ham and tomato.
"Am I disappointed?" I turn to Erwin and ask. "Absolutely not."
Six yards of elegance
There were always three protagonists in Chopra's films: the boy, the girl and the sari.
The filmmaker was known to torment himself over every minor detail, right down to the fabric of the traditional Indian attire - often referred to as six yards of elegance - his heroines wore.
He firmly believed a sari should be georgette, because nothing else flies in the Swiss breeze quite like it.
But on the set of DDLJ, there was an antagonist, too: Chopra's son Aditya, who decided to break away from the family tradition and draped his leading lady, Kajol, in a silk sari, instead.
The 2023 Netflix documentary, The Romantics, on the life and times of Chopra touches on the heated discussions the father-son duo had about the costume.
But there were no disagreements about the shooting location: a meadow erupting with colourful wildflowers against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
There were always three protagonists in Chopra's films: the boy, the girl and the sari.
There are no wildflowers during my visit in August, nor are the peaks white, but as Erwin drives me through Lauenen - about 90 minutes south of Bern - we go past one stunning meadow after another.
Signing up for Erwin's tour or hopping behind the wheel yourself is perhaps the best way to take in their joyous beauty; the ability to stop and take pics wherever you like being the top incentive of a road trip.
But if that's not an option, you can take in the ever-changing views from the window of a train.
Switzerland boasts an incredible rail network - from high-speed trains that can transport you between major cities in a flash to open coaches that slowly meander up and down the mountains, taking you to places such as the Schynige Platte ridge in the heart of the Jungfrau Region.
For the ultimate sightseeing experience, though, hop aboard one of the Panoramic trains with wide windows that stretch all the way to the ceiling.
There are five Panoramic rail routes spread across the country, which wind their way through heart-racing scenery - sparkling lakes and ice-blue glaciers one moment; fairytale towns with majestic churches the next.
Armed with a Swiss Travel Pass (see Trip Notes), I hop on three Panoramic trains over the course of a week, with the one-hour-50-minute journey from Interlaken to Luzern winning my vote for the most unforgettable views.
As the train approaches Lake Brienz, I see shades of turquoise I have never seen before.
Between the stations of Meiringen and Brunig-Hasliberg the train zig-zags up a mountain, with tall trees shrouding the views. But every now and then the curtains drop to reveal ethereal peaks seemingly floating on mist, and deep valleys dotted with remote barns.
And just when I think I have seen it all, the most beautiful leg between Lungern and Kaiserstulh stations begins to unfold.
As I gawk at ridiculously photogenic villages set around emerald lakes from the massive window of my train, I feel like I'm looking at a cinema screen with quintessential Yash Chopra scenery splashed over it. The only thing missing is a Bollywood damsel in a silk sari. Or should it be georgette?
The mountains speak
In 2016, the Swiss government honoured Chopra for his contribution to the country's tourism industry by unveiling a statue of the director in Interlaken. Located at the point where two glacier-fed lakes interlock (hence the name, Interlaken), the town used to be Chopra's favourite base whenever he was in Switzerland for extended shooting schedules.
Check out his statue in Kursaal Garden, with manicured lawns, colourful flower beds and trickling fountains; then make your way to the city's poshest address: the Victoria-Jungfrau hotel, which is home to the Yash Chopra suite on the second floor. Even if you're not staying at the property, the hotel has been known to allow visitors to have a peek inside the suite - if you ask nicely.
"It doesn't really look anything like when Yash Chopra used to stay here," says Zurich-based Monika Bucher, who also offers private tours of Bollywood in Switzerland, along with heading the local fanclub of one of India's most revered actors, Shah Rukh Khan.
Read more on Explore:
"The interiors have changed over the years, but the view from the balcony hasn't."
Jungfrau is one of the most majestic mountains of Switzerland, and you can see it in its full glory from this balcony. The park across the road is a landing spot for aerial enthusiasts and - legend has it - Chopra used to spend hours on the balcony, soaking up the views of paragliders, descending like colourful snowflakes against the backdrop of Jungfrau.
Don't fret if you can't tour the Yash Chopra suite, though; if the weather allows, ask for an outdoor table along the main road at the hotel's Ristorante e Pizzeria Sapori. It's the perfect people-watching spot, with the imposing Jungfrau in the distance.
As I dig into my burrata salad and lobster linguine, the snow-capped mountain first turns amber in the setting sun, then pink, then purple, then white again as twilight descends. And scenes from Chopra's films spring to mind.
The director shot countless song-and-dance sequences against the backdrop of mountains like Jungfrau, often laden with snow. And while the hero was always dressed appropriately (ie, several layers of woollen), the heroine only ever wore a sheer sari. How else would the georgette fly?
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Qantas, Qatar and Cathay Pacific offer flights from major Australian cities to Zurich.
Getting around: Swiss Travel Pass for three, four, six, eight or 15 days gives you access to most trains, buses, trams and ferries, and discounts on mountain railways (such as cable cars, funiculars and cogwheel coaches). Download the SBB Mobile app for more details and timetables.
Bollywood tours: Erwin Tours of Switzerland's bespoke Bollywood nine-hour excursions start at CHF1300 per couple. For set Bollywood tour options and pricing, visit erwintours.ch
Explore more: myswitzerland.com; interlaken.ch; zuerich.com
CITY GUIDES
Whether you enter or exit Switzerland via Bern or Zurich, or decide to base yourself in Interlaken just like Chopra, here are some recommendations in the three Swiss hotspots.
BERN
Stay: Bellevue Palace is the official guesthouse of the Swiss government, meaning when the parliament (which is right next door) is sitting, some of the country's most high-ranking officials stay here (guests are known to have bumped into Swiss prime ministers in the lobby). But more importantly: first built in 1865, then expanded and fully revamped in 1913, the hotel is the last gift of the Belle Epoque era to the city. Take in the magnificence of its grand staircases, soaring domes and sumptuously decorated lounges on the ground floor, then check into one of its luxurious rooms, ideally with views of the svelte Aare river and the striking Kirchenfeldbrucke bridge. bellevue-palace.ch
Eat: Bellevue Palace's Brasserie Vue effortlessly serves up French classics and contemporary dishes - from twice-baked souffles to whole sea bass baked in salt crust. If you're there in the summer months, ask for a table on the terrace with wide-angle valley, river and mountain views. For traditional Swiss fare, make your way to Beaulieu in Langgasse neighbourhood, where all the local classics - from rosti to Zuri Gschatzlets (veal in a creamy sauce) are on the menu.
Do: There's no shortage of gorgeous old towns in Switzerland - there's one in every city. But according to Erwin Fassler, the most atmospheric and evocative is the Old Town of Bern. Wander through its sandstone buildings and timeless arcades to reach sites such as the Nydegg castle and the 13th-century clock tower, Zytglogge.
ZURICH
Stay: Located in Zurich's Old Town, Widder is a collection of nine medieval buildings, which have been strung together with staircases, ramps, lifts and bridges to create a world-class hotel with just 49 rooms. You will lose your way here, and that's the fun of it. Enjoy a drink in the leafy courtyard if the weather allows, or make your way to the gorgeous Library at the heart of the property with vintage rugs, old-world couches and walls that are 700 years old. Upstairs the characterful rooms - with pitched roofs, exposed wooden beams and original windows with views of the neighbourhood - are just as stunning. widderhotel.com
Eat: The onsite Widder Restaurant has two Michelin stars and sources only the highest quality ingredients from around the world, including - during my visit - Wagyu short rib from Australia. Or head to the waterside Fischerstube Zurihorn, the legendary restaurant with thatched-hut roofs. Suspended on stilts over the Limmat river, it has sensational water views, with delicious fare to match. Handmade tagliolini with Swiss salmon, anyone?
Do: If the lofty ceilings, expansive windows and dramatic staircases of the new extension of Kunsthaus museum - designed by David Chipperfield and opened in 2021 - don't take your breath away, its art will. There are more masterpieces - by Monet, Munch, Picasso, Lipchitz, Matisse, van Gogh ... you name it - on the top floors here than all the museums in Australia put together. Set aside a whole day. And then some.
INTERLAKEN
Stay: You can't get a better location than Hotel Royal St Georges Interlaken MGallery. On one side are the peaks of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains, on the other the emerald waters of Aare river. The historic rooms are replete with baroque detail, but my pick would be a modern room with teal-coloured walls, balcony and queen-sized bed. all.accor.com
Eat: One of the scenes in DDLJ was filmed at Schuh cafe and restaurant in the heart of Interlaken and - to this day - the venue impresses diners with mountain and park views and dishes like cheese fondue. Grab a table outside for the full cinematic effect.
Do: To fully appreciate Interlaken's beauty, take the funicular - more than a century old - to the top of Harder Kulm (the nearest mountain to the town). From the viewing platform here - 1322 metres above sea level - take in the bird's-eye view of the gorgeous settlement at the intersection of two turquoise lakes (Thun and Brienz), with the emerald-green Aare snaking through it.
The writer travelled with assistance from Switzerland Tourism.
