Scotland calling: Experience a touch of royal magic in Edinburgh

Long before I visited, I knew I'd love Scotland. It's rich in culture, heritage and vast swathes of emerald-green countryside, and there's an irresistible charm to the nation that seems to have a collective twinkle in its eye. For starters, the official national animal is a unicorn. It's right there on the coat of arms, symbolising purity, power and a touch of magic. Once you know the Scots, it makes sense. They're terrific people; warm, friendly, welcoming and always up for a laugh.

Even if you don't have time to explore the wild Scottish Highlands - more than 25,000 square kilometres of rugged, natural beauty - it's a joy to spend time in the cities. Take Edinburgh, Scotland's capital.

An elegant metropolis of grand architecture and royal traditions, Edinburgh bursts with life and festivities in the summertime, when visitors arrive in the millions. Six cultural festivals dedicated to books, art, music and the performing arts take place in July and August every year. Bars and restaurants are open late as a spirit of New Year's Eve revelry takes over each night.

Start planning now if you want to be part of the action this summer. Hotels and festival passes book out months in advance for Edinburgh International Festival and Edinburgh Festival Fringe.

If your planning tends to be more spontaneous, you can still catch street performances and pick up rush tickets to incredible shows for next to nothing. Stretching just over 1.6 kilometres, five cobblestoned streets make up the walking precinct of the Royal Mile. During festival time, spruikers hand out flyers and discount coupons for the gigs they're promoting. Pack your comfiest shoes and be prepared to rush from one end of the city to the other to see as many shows as you can cram in.

Scheduling challenges are rewarded with some of the most dynamic, thought-provoking and hilarious performances you'll enjoy anywhere in the world. During my four-day visit, I saw a revue of Indigenous Australian stand-up comedians, Sir Ian McKellen in Hamlet, modern ballet choreographed by Kyle Abraham, theatre in the park, African dance, a bubble show for adults and a very hairy man in a white leotard explaining the history of ancient Greece. For every show I saw, there were at least two more I wish I'd had time for. It's not all spotlights and stage makeup, of course. While in Edinburgh, take the opportunity to join a free walking tour of the historic Royal Mile. On an informative stroll past the city's most iconic buildings, hear stories about the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, the Church of Canongate and Scotland's own Parliament House.

My guide, a retired Anglican priest, volunteers every summer as a way to share his love of the city with visitors from around the world. He leads us on a 90-minute walk that's peppered with historical anecdotes and local tips - "Great fish and chips in that pub!" - before sending us on our way in the direction of Edinburgh Castle.

The grand castle and fortress, holding court atop an extinct volcano, dominates the city skyline. Part of Edinburgh's World Heritage Site, its walls hold the legendary tales of the Royal Palace, the Crown Jewels and the Scottish National War Memorial. Brush up on British history before you visit; Mary Queen of Scots, Oliver Cromwell and Sir Walter Scott have all walked the castle's halls and contributed to its storied past.

Every August, stadium-style stands are erected in the shadow of the castle for the annual Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Celebrating the musical talents of military bands from all corners of the globe, the grand spectacle involves hundreds of performers and takes place after the sun goes down. So popular it sells out every year, the thrilling display of dance, music and military pageantry is an Edinburgh must.

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Where to sleep: The perfect central location for guests who plan to attend the Edinburgh Festival, Hotel Indigo Edinburgh is a historic boutique hotel in New Town, an elegant district of 18th-century townhouses. See: ihg.com

Where to eat: Forget the haggis and Scotch eggs, Edinburgh's modern food scene is tantalisingly progressive. Go to Hendersons for innovative vegetarian dishes that will also satisfy meat-eaters and flexitarians. We recommend the buffalo cauliflower bites. At Wedgwood the Restaurant, celebrate seasonal Scottish produce in an elegant space with a well-considered wine list. Nearby, bookings are a very good idea at White Horse Oyster & Seafood Bar. Diners are obsessed with the tempura lobster, monkfish satay and hake ceviche. See: hendersonsrestaurant.com; wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk; whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk

Where to drink: Luckenbooths on the Royal Mile offers a well-curated menu of Scottish draught beers, low/no-alcohol beverages and cocktails. Try the Royal Mile Remedy (gin, passionfruit liqueur, pineapple and fresh raspberries). See: luckenboothsedinburgh.co.uk

Festival fever: Six incredible festivals, including the Edinburgh International Festival and Festival Fringe, run in Edinburgh in July and August. See: edinburghfestivalcity.com

Take a bite: Calling all Willy Wonka wannabes! The most popular element of The Chocolatarium's factory and museum tours is the make-your-own-chocolate-bar experience. After taste-testing, exit through the delicious gift shop. See: chocolatarium.co.uk

Souvenirs of Scotland: Scotch whisky, naturally. A tartan kilt or tartan cashmere scarf holds broad appeal. For the sweet tooth, a packet of Tunnock's teacakes is an inexpensive gift. And for tea lovers, Scottish Breakfast Tea trumps the English version.

The writer travelled with assistance from Visit Britain and IHG Hotels & Resorts.

Pictures: Visit Britain