Unforgettable moments you can only have in this game reserve

Let's go find a polar bear," says ranger Doc Temba, chuckling softly, as he steers us out of camp. It's 5.30am and there's still a nip of overnight chill in the air. The sun is just a faint orange glow on the horizon but the South African bush woke up hours ago with a pre-dawn chorus of grunting hippos.

Perched precariously on the front of our open-top 4WD is Louis Mkansi, a local tracker armed with a stick Temba claims has magical powers because it "brings more animals". The two work in silent harmony - Mkansi studying the sandy trails for tracks; Temba following his directions via the magic stick.

Within half an hour, we've found something better than a polar bear. Well, at least more probable. It's a lioness with three six-month-old cubs. We watch spellbound as they pose photogenically on a fallen tree before following them into a sandy hollow where the cubs take it in turns to chase each other while mum rests in the shade. It's one of those "only on safari" moments that makes this morning's bleary-eyed 5am wake-up call totally worth it.

Sabi Sabi has been delivering experiences like this for more than 40 years. A family-owned private game reserve in the south-western section of Greater Kruger, it's part of a 5.5-million-hectare unfenced conservation area. We're staying at Earth Lodge, the most aesthetically arresting of the reserve's four properties (the others are Selati Camp, Bush Lodge and Little Bush Camp). Built into a downward slope, it's invisible on approach and is only revealed when you walk down a narrow pathway that leads to a dramatic open-sided lounge overlooking the bush.

I was lucky enough to visit the property 12 years ago and I was curious to see whether it would still have the same stride-stopping wow-factor second time around. In short, it does, which is impressive given how easily audacious architectural designs can date. Aside from a refurbishment in 2019 to lighten the interiors and modernise the suites, the lodge is as I remember it - a wonderfully tactile medley of earth-toned walls, animal-print rugs and striking, bespoke artworks fashioned from pieces of local matumi driftwood.

Each of the 13 standalone suites is a haven of effortless elegance, with rough-hewn concrete walls, crushed-quartz floors, and colourful watercolours of local flora and fauna. A vaulted entranceway containing a robe-sized maxibar (minibar doesn't do it justice) stocked with complimentary wines and spirits leads to a spacious living area with a contemporary L-shaped sofa and a queen-size bed. The marble-swathed bathroom has an alluring oval bathtub and opens onto an outdoor terrace with a private plunge pool, which you might have to share with a thirsty elephant as the lodge isn't fenced.

The whole setup is so delightfully indulgent it actually makes you consider skipping a game drive just so you can savour it. Many guests choose the lodge's popular "stay four nights, pay for three" package precisely so they can.

Another thing that hasn't changed since my last visit is the relentless culinary bombardment. It starts at 5am with a pre-game-drive hot drink and a freshly baked muffin. Then there's a lavish breakfast buffet with a la carte options including kitchen favourites, such as chef Joyce's homemade chakalaka, a delicious spicy tomato relish. Lunch is another blizzard of choices, from smoked-salmon salads to pulled-pork tacos and ribeye steaks. I guarantee you won't feel like afternoon tea at 4pm, but good luck resisting the will-testing array of fruit and homemade cakes. And then, of course, there's dinner, which is a four-course extravaganza with a local game option (think peppered ostrich steak or bacon-wrapped warthog fillet) that's often served outside - either in the lantern-lit boma or under a canopy of fairy lights on the lawn. Vinophiles will swoon over the inclusive wine list, which runs to 10 pages, but if you want to splash out, there's an atmospheric wine cellar (which you can dine in, too) containing rare vintages and intriguing drops from lesser-known South African winemakers.

And then there are all the unexpected delights, such as the pop-up gin bar we "discover" one afternoon on a game drive and the refreshing shots of lemon sorbet awaiting our return. Retiring to my suite one night, I find an artfully arranged Amarula cream liqueur nightcap and a bedtime story.

In summary, accept the fact that no matter how often you visit the lodge's gym (apparently, people do), you're going to leave with some excess waist luggage.

Another benefit of a longer stay is that it means you can indulge in a spa treatment (I can personally recommend the CBD oil massage) and visit one of the local community projects started by the Sabi Sabi Foundation. Community involvement and education has always been one of Sabi Sabi's core principles - it was the first South African reserve to employ a black ranger and one of the first to employ a female ranger. Current initiatives include a catering facility for vulnerable kids, a digital learning centre and a school netball and soccer league.

Temba, who lives in a village 45 minutes away, started at Sabi Sabi as a tracker, but, thanks to inhouse training, has progressed to become a ranger. Every job vacancy is offered to the local community first and, where possible, staff are promoted from within. The company's most senior ranger started 42 years ago as a tea boy.

During our four game drives, we're blessed with numerous spellbinding moments, from three male lions grooming each other before a hunt to the comical display of a giraffe folding like a deckchair to drink from a watering hole. We witness hyenas squabbling over a waterbuck carcass, find a leopard feasting on a kudu and watch breathlessly as lions, rhinos and elephants all pass within metres of the jeep.

Every afternoon drive is punctuated by a sundowner, where the rangers find a scenic spot and magically conjure up a full bar and a platter of snacks. While watching the sun melt over the horizon, I ask Temba if he's enjoying his new role as a ranger. His reply sums up what we're all thinking: "Being here is just a blessing."

Getting there: Qantas flies direct from Sydney to Johannesburg; see sabisabi.com for transport options to the reserve.

Staying there: Rates at Earth Lodge start at R35,800 ($2930) per person, per night (twin-share) and include accommodation, two daily safaris, all meals and most drinks. See sabisabi.com

Touring there: African specialist This is Africa has almost 25 years of experience and offers all-inclusive packages, group tours and tailor-made itineraries. See thisisafrica.com.au

Explore more: southafrica.net

The writer travelled as a guest of South African Tourism, Sabi Sabi and This is Africa.