Found! Australia's most beautiful islands with surprises at every turn

Richard Baxter tells me the Cocos Keeling Islands, located halfway between Australia and Sri Lanka, are a birder's paradise. As well as their rare and resident bird population, the two atolls that comprise 27 coral islets are the only place in Australia to sight species from Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia, all in the one place.

One of the country's leading bird experts and the founder of Birding Tours Australia, Baxter has been coming to Cocos (as it's more commonly known) for the past 20 years, but recently made a record-breaking discovery.

"With over 100 species found on Cocos, bird numbers have been rising for a while, but in January I came across a rare vagrant I'd been waiting years to see," Baxter says. Spotted beside the runway of Cocos's only airport, a lone northern wheatear had travelled an extraordinary distance from Eurasia to escape the northern winter. "These long-distance migrants usually stop well before getting to Cocos, so to see one this far south was an Australian first," he recalls.

Faraway flyers choosing Cocos as their balmy haven of rest include the likes of the Chinese pond heron, the Himalayan swiftlet and the Japanese sparrowhawk, and though I might not be a rare vagrant bird (at least not of the feathered variety), after spending close to a week on Cocos, I can easily see how these palm-fringed shores in the Indian Ocean might work their magnetic charm, to pull one back year after year.

It's not surprising that most Australians haven't heard of the Cocos Keeling Islands. After being discovered by Captain William Keeling in 1609, the uninhabited islands went on to become settled in 1827 by Scottish merchant John Clunies-Ross and family, with Queen Victoria granting all land to the family in 1886. Known as the "Kings of Cocos", the Clunies-Ross dynasty continued for a further five generations before Cocos was declared an Australian Territory in 1955, with all land purchased by the Australian government in 1978.

Utilised for its strategic position during the two world wars and host to a visit in 1954 from Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Cocos today is accessible to all, and while the little northern wheatear arrived via its own steam, I'm flying in on a more common creature of the skies - the Boeing 737.

It is operated by Virgin Australia, with just two flights per week on Tuesday and Friday, and Perth is the only departure point from mainland Australia, with stops via Exmouth and Christmas Island. (Expect to pay from $1165 return.)

It's technically a domestic flight and passports aren't compulsory, but we're advised to carry one in case of an international diversion - most likely to Jakarta, which is closer to the remote outpost than any part of the Australian mainland.

With only 144 visitors allowed at any one time, West Island is where most expats and holidaymakers stay, while Home Island is where the Cocos Malay people - who make up the majority of the islands' 600 or so residents - live.

Upon arrival at the airport located in West Island's town centre, immigration cards are checked and a safety briefing by police reinforces our remote reality. Apart from an explanation of how to radio for help (should we become stranded) from emergency points dotted over the islands, there's a warning about heavy fines imposed for unauthorised entry to the airport's unfenced runway - also the world's only international landing strip that doubles as part of a nine-hole golf course.

With the serious stuff out of the way it's time to slip into island mode, and as soon as I step outside the airport, I feel the first waves of familiarity. It's as if I've been transported back to the days of my childhood because just like the small country town in Western Australia's remote Pilbara region where I grew up, I discover everyone knows each other, houses and cars are left unlocked, and locals walk around barefoot. In fact, life here is so laid-back, I'm told that even the islands' only GP casually e-foils his way across the lagoon to work each day.

This blast from the past doesn't stop here. With patchy internet and no mobile phone coverage anywhere, public phone boxes are commonplace, including behind the town's only pub, Cocos Club, where the sounds of 1980s glam rock drift on the warm afternoon air.

With my accommodation just a five-minute walk away, I stroll with my suitcase down Sydney Highway (West Island's main street) and fall in step with a woman who tells me the lack of signal is what most people love about holidaying here. "Especially parents who want their children to get a sense of 'real connection'," she says.

In 1836, during his HMS Beagle voyage, Charles Darwin stopped at Cocos to develop his well-known Atoll Theory. Today, connection to nature is still Cocos's main draw, with the surrounding waters making up one of the largest protected marine sanctuaries in the world.

Our first day is spent exploring them with tour boat operator Cocosday, whose owner and skipper Dan Martain introduces us to the highlights of the Eastern Atoll. Luck is on our side as within the first few minutes of leaving shore we encounter Cocos's only known dugong, Kat. "This is amazing," Martain says. "Kat hasn't been seen around here for about 10 years so we're off to a really great start."

He isn't wrong. Manta rays are next on the list, and when we stop at the popular cleaning station in the lagoon, I can't slip on my fins fast enough to join them in the water. Suspended serenely over coral-covered bommies and gill-cleaning fish, I watch as five black star-shaped beauties twist and glide below.

Otherworldly intrigue continues at another spectacular snorkelling site - the Phaeton wreck. Moving meditatively over the backbone of the ship that sunk here in 1889 is eerie yet beautiful - evoking wonder and memories of Buddhist teachings. There's something symbiotic and touching about the reincarnation of this wreck that sits on the sandy bottom - a boat brought back to life by colourful coral blooms, soft sponge gardens and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish which have made this iron skeleton their home.

The rest of the afternoon is spent basking in the delights of Direction Island where we swim at Cossies Beach - a spot named Australia's best beach in 2017 by Tourism Australia's beach connoisseur, Brad Farmer. Exploring the island, I'm surprised to find a pondok (or shack) where passing yachties have left messages on nautical mementos, like love letters from the sea.

The next day we skip to the southern reaches of the lagoon with Cocosday, this time by motorised canoe. Captaining our own vessel is a fun way to explore crystal-clear waters and whimsical beaches while getting up close to wildlife including a giant green turtle that dives beneath our bow.

After snorkelling the gentle rip current circling Pulu Maraya, it's off to another award-winning beach for a picnic. Coming in at number five on Farmer's Best Australian Beaches list this year, the tiny oasis of Pulu Blan Madar is postcard-perfect, and as I sit with cold beer in hand, I can't imagine anywhere I'd rather be. Neither can some of the country's rarest wildlife, for along with its neighbouring island, Pulu Blan Madar is now home to the Christmas Island's blue-tailed skink - a tiny reptile that was considered extinct in the wild until a successful breeding program at Sydney's Taronga Zoo saw it recently rewilded here.

On our final day of aquatic adventures, Pete McCartney from Cocos Blue Charters takes us to what's considered to be the best snorkelling site in the atolls. On the way we run into a pod of dolphins which we attempt to swim with before coming face to face with a gang of two-metre reef sharks instead. "Don't worry, they're just like puppy dogs!" McCartney yells as we paddle enthusiastically back to the boat.

But the highlight is Direction Island's famous rip. It's hard not to get carried away with the glorious gallery of tropical treasures, as the current takes us from the shore and along the outer reef, before spitting us into the lagoon.

One of our days is spent on Home Island and alighting the ferry we are met by Cocos Malay guide Osman "Ossie" Macrae, who will introduce us to the history and culture of Australia's oldest Muslim community.

Reaching the waterfront, we take our seats and as if on cue, the morning call to prayer rings out from the kampong (village) mosque.

Originally brought to Cocos from Malaysia and Indonesia as slaves by English merchant Alexander Hare in 1826, Cocos Malays then began working in the Clunies-Ross's lucrative coconut plantations after the family ousted Hare and took control a year later. While Macrae tells us life was good under the Clunies-Ross "reign", we learn workers were paid in a currency that had no value outside of the islands - a practice that continued without intervention until as late as the 1970s.

With varying local opinions on this blurred chapter in Cocos's history, what's clear today is that this vibrant community is now in firm control of its future, with the majority of Cocos Malays voting to become fully integrated with Australia in 1984 in a UN-supervised act of self-determination.

With diverse origins and influences, we learn about the Cocos Malay people's singular identity. Practising Sunni Islam, and speaking a Bahasa Indonesian/Malay dialect, the islanders have a complex traditional naming system and, as well as also adopting anglicised names, have embraced European traditions, too, including Scottish reel dancing.

After a delicious feast of traditional dishes including chicken sambal, kerpedel (fish balls), coral trout curry and coconut pandan pancakes, we witness the island skills of community elder Watson as he shows us how to husk coconuts and weave traditional keroso (palm leaf) baskets.

"Traditionally, it was the men who made these baskets because when out fishing or collecting coconuts, they used it to pass time while waiting for the tide to come in," Macrae says.

Also behoven to the sea's schedule, while we don't have time for the sea salt and soap-making workshop usually included in Ossie's Cultural Tour, we opt for a quick lap of Home Island by electric buggy that includes a fascinating stop at Pulu Cocos Museum, before boarding our ferry back to West Island.

If you're looking for luxury, you won't find it here, but that's all part of this relaxed, authentic island experience.

With no five-star resorts on Cocos, visitor accommodation ranges from comfortable beachside bungalows - like The Breakers - to self-contained apartments and holiday homes.

The same goes for eating options. Though West Island's small supermarket stocks basic food items, a lack of fresh provisions on the islands means those with specialty dietary requirements are encouraged to bring their own.

There is however a small selection of good eateries including Salty's Bakery and Grill for the likes of takeaway stone-grilled pizza and panko-crumbed fish and chips; Surfer Girl Brewery for alfresco local brews and Australian and Asian dishes; Tropika for traditional Cocos Malay fare; and Wild Coconut Discovery Centre for handmade coconut ice-cream. Alternatively, enjoy the sunset with a beach-side grazing platter. Cocos Picnics' pop-up service comes complete with rugs, cushions, utensils and a hamper of gourmet goodies.

While almost everyone comes to Cocos for nature-based activities, if you've got a creative side, The Big Barge Art Centre is where you'll find an art gallery and shop housed inside the hull of a restored timber barge. With a studio also located here, founder and artist Emma Washer runs sustainable art workshops where participants can recycle beach debris to create artworks, then grab coffee and baked goods at on-site cafe, Sula Sula Servery.

Lastly, though a local bus service will take you to and from the ferry terminal, if you want to explore the best beaches and attractions on West Island, car hire shouldn't be overlooked. Book in advance with Happy Jacks or Cocos Autos.

Explore more: cocoskeelingislands.com.au

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The writer was a guest of Cocos Keeling Islands Tourism Association.

Pictures: Rik Soderlund; Rachel Claire; Bonita Grima; Cocos Keeling Tourism.