Heart-racing hikes and scenic cruises meet world-class cuisine and top-notch lodgings at Saffire Freycinet.
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There are three small reflection pools at the entrance to the Saffire Freycinet lodge and guests have been stepping into them unwittingly. I don't blame them. In anticipation of this trip, I have been looking at the pictures of Tasmania's famous Hazards mountain range for weeks ahead of my arrival. But as soon as I enter the lodge, so transfixed I am with the views of the pink granite peaks piercing through crisp blue skies that I almost walk into one of the pools myself.
![The foyer of Saffire Freycinet with views of the Great Oyster Bay and Hazards mountains. The foyer of Saffire Freycinet with views of the Great Oyster Bay and Hazards mountains.](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/190394412/b1d9576c-7cea-477d-bcf9-0cdc6c30a5e3.jpeg/r0_0_8256_6192_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
"We've had to install bars around them," says Patrick Barrie, the lodge's general manager, as he welcomes me with a glass of rosé, my eyes still glued to the sparkling waters of the Great Oyster Bay and the mountains beyond them.
A few hours later, on Saffire Freycinet's just-launched Seafood and Sparkling Cruise, I understand what makes these granite cliffs so hypnotic. A slick shaded vessel, purpose-built for these waters, whisks a few lodge guests away from the jetty in the sleepy town of Coles Bay (population 515) to the foot of these vivid escarpments.
You can find pink and red granite across the world ... But this pink and this high? Only in Freycinet National Park.
"You can find pink and red granite across the world, including in northern India, China and Texas," says our guide Chris Theobald. "But this pink and this high? Only in Freycinet National Park," he adds, as he serves up world-class sparkling wine (Janz Single Vineyard Chardonnay, vintage 2018) and delicious seafood (black lip abalone with white soy and kohlrabi).
![A bird's eye view of the luxury lodge. A bird's eye view of the luxury lodge.](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/190394412/33cc81ff-26b2-47a4-9cb5-404fa203bd43.jpg/r0_626_4856_3356_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
And on this two-hour adventure the best is yet to come. As Cory the skipper speeds the vessel away from the base of the Hazards and turns it into a quiet cove, I see waters the colour I have never seen in Australia before. Maldivian green is perhaps the best way to describe them. "It's the quartz particles in the sand that give the shallows this hue," says Chris.
I have only been at Saffire Freycinet a few hours and I have already ticked off three of Tasmania's biggest drawcards: seafood, sparkling and scenery.
A giant stingray
If I were a rock on the face of the Hazards looking back at Saffire Freycinet, all I would see is a svelte grey arc on a canvas of lush flora - that's how well the lodge designed by Hobart-based Circa Morris-Nunn Architects blends into its environment.
But it would be a completely different story if I were a white-bellied sea-eagle circling the skies. I would see a giant stingray drifting through silver waves.
The "stingray" is the main lodge building, with a breathtaking ceiling that sweeps up and down, mimicking the shape of the peaks - Amos and Mayson - right in front of it. Flooded with natural light, with enormously tall glass windows, it houses the beautifully decorated lobby, a sprawling lounge area and the fine-dining restaurant, Palate.
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The "waves", on the other hand, are the skillion roofs of the lodge's 20 suites.
Saffire Freycinet opened 14 years ago, but relaxing in one of the Luxury Suites, which looks as good as new, it's hard to imagine it's been that long. Spread over 80 square metres with an ensuite perhaps bigger than the living room of my Sydney apartment, the suite features a separate lounge area with designer furniture, a work desk in polished Tasmanian timber, and mod-cons such as electric blinds that open and close at the press of a button. There's a retractable TV, too, cleverly concealed behind one of the wall panels. But I don't use it even once: the views of the Hazards - blazing red at dusk or being swallowed by dark clouds at dawn - are riveting enough.
![Chef Paddy Prenter's delicious pork belly. Picture: Akash Arora Chef Paddy Prenter's delicious pork belly. Picture: Akash Arora](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/190394412/c896277a-c9fd-4dcf-9b0a-04fdd6846da5.jpg/r0_1834_4284_5712_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
And then there's Palate. Good food, they say, can be transformative. I am not a big fan of pork belly. I find it hard, fatty and chewy - all at once. But one bite of executive chef Paddy Prenter's pork belly amuse bouche and I'm transformed. Drenched in a sweet soy sauce and slow-cooked for 10 hours, it leaves me wanting more. And next day I am in luck. Having gauged how much I loved it, the chef has sent it my way again - only this time, it's no meagre portion, but a generous plate of bite-sized morsels I enjoy in the lounge area with a glass of Kir Royale.
A bay of wine
If you think Tasmania's world-renowned Wineglass Bay is named so because its curvaceous beach resembles the shape of a wine glass then you're only half right.
"It has to do with the colour of the water, too, which was once red - like a glass of merlot - because whales were slaughtered here," says my guide Michelle, as she leads a small group of lodge guests on another of Saffire Freycinet's incredible experiences, the Wineglass Bay Lookout Walk.
We arrive at the base of the mountain on a cloudy day and weave our way through corridors of melaleucas, banksias and kunzeas bursting with white honey-scented flowers, before the ascent takes us in the heart of pink granite boulders - some lining the cliffs on our left, some cascading down the valley on our right and some cantilevered above us on giant rock faces.
![The Wineglass Bay lookout. The Wineglass Bay lookout.](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/190394412/2aa3cd69-2149-493c-9dd8-e32ae738fd04.jpg/r0_432_8107_4990_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
"The air is very pure here, so try to breathe in as much as you can," says Michelle. I'm breathing in, all right, and not only because it's pure but also because it's a steep climb with 450 steps. But when I finally reach the lookout, the view of the beach - wedged like a giant comma between lush forests and a restless sea - is worth the effort. And to top it off, the clouds suddenly peel away.
The Wineglass Lookout Walk is just one of the exquisite experiences included in the lodge's tariff. A trip to an oyster farm nearby where you don a pair of waders, step into the shallows and taste ocean-fresh molluscs; observing Tasmanian devils in a free-range enclosure; and a beekeeping experience, which involves wearing a full-body apiarist suit and getting into the thick of the hives, are also part of the offerings.
And that's the beauty of Saffire Freycinet. It's so much more than a luxury hotel. It's the gateway to some incredible experiences you can only have in this part of the world.
SNAPSHOT
What: Saffire Freycinet, 2352 Coles Bay Road, Coles Bay, Tasmania
How much: From $2500 per night per suite (includes food, drinks, accommodation and Signature experiences, such as the Wineglass Bay Lookout Walk and Freycinet Oyster Farm).
Explore more: saffire-freycinet.com.au
The writer was a guest of Saffire Freycinet.