Tropical Maui has one of the world's best sunrise experiences - but you'll need to rug up.
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Even in pre-dawn's dimness, it's easy to spot those who have ascended Maui's Mount Haleakala on a whim. They're the people who didn't pack properly before leaving home, not knowing they'd be tempted to witness sunrise from some three kilometres above sea level.
Instead, they've done their creative best to add warmth to a tropical Hawaiian wardrobe - with the most inventive grabbing hotel doonas or blankets, and even oversized beach towels to swaddle themselves against the bitter cold. After all, what's a bit of chicken skin - the American term for what Aussies call goose-bumps - when you're about to be treated to one of the world's most extraordinary daybreaks.
Although it's possible to head to the summit of the world's largest dormant volcano as an independent traveller, this requires planning (with a vehicle reservation essential). It's easier to sign up with one of the local companies offering sunrise tours. Be prepared for not much sleep, though, as pick-up time from your Maui hotel could be as early as 1.30am.
It might feel silly, waiting at sea level bundled up in your warmest jacket, gloves, beanie and scarf - but you'll thank me for this advice about 90 minutes later. Another tip: if you flew to Hawaii toting a neck pillow, bring that too as ascending the Haleakala Highway in the dark while winding this way and that is extraordinarily sleep-inducing (and let's face it, you'll be in sleep-deficit starting this tour).
Up top, you'll encounter a packed parking lot with plenty of other vehicles waiting for the show to start. Although you can hop out of your mini-bus to stretch the legs, the biting cold will probably send you scuttling back to your seat to stay warm while waiting for first light to dawn.
The most dedicated sunrise-watchers and photographers, though, will stake their front-row position at the guard rail overlooking the volcano's "crater" (actually an erosion-created valley) so they can snap away at the scene unimpeded. If you don't feel like sharing the upcoming extravaganza with so many others, look around for the Pa Ka'oao Trail - it winds around a volcanic cinder cone to lead to a less crowded vantage point.
From this spot, I take in the show as the earth rotates and unveils the magic. As the light brightens, it becomes clear we're standing above the clouds. Nothing blocks our view of giant candy-pink and citrus-orange brushstrokes streaking the sky.
What is unexpected is the rush of golden light when the morning sun bursts through the cloud layer. Have the Hawaiian gods blessed us in particular or is this what unfolds here every day? Certainly, the splendour is regular enough that seeing sunrise from this spot has been popular since the late 1800s when Mark Twain wrote: "It was the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed, and I think the memory of it will remain with me always."
As daylight hardens, we return to the bus to see more of Haleakala National Park. We pass observatories that attract international astronomers and, at the pinnacle of 3055 metres, learn more about the hardy flora and fauna that survive and thrive in this windblown cinder desert.
If your luck continues, you might spy one of the mountaintop's most photogenic plant species. The anemone-like Haleakala silversword grows for decades before producing a single, spectacular flowering stalk. The seeds are carried away on the wind before the plant bids farewell in a blaze of glory.
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TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Hawaiian Airlines and Qantas fly non-stop from Sydney, and Jetstar flies non-stop from Melbourne, to Honolulu, Oahu, where there are connections to Kahului, Maui.
Touring there: Sunrise tours in Haleakala National Park generally range from $US210 ($313) to $US225 a person. Haleakala is Hawaii's third-highest peak (the two highest, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, are on the Island of Hawaii). See haleakalaecotours.com; tourmaui.com; skylinehawaii.com; polyad.com
Staying there: Maui urges visitors to support its tourism industry in the wake of 2023's devastating wildfires. Lahaina remains closed but South Maui's Wailea is home to an abundance of hotels including the Grand Wailea. This hotel's recent glow-up includes adding a circular fish-filled aquarium that doubles as the signature restaurant's bar. See grandwailea.com
Explore more: gohawaii.com.au
The writer travelled courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Oceania.
Mercury falling
Five other cold experiences you can enjoy in hot places.
1. SKI DUBAI: This is one of the world's most surreal travel experiences - on one side of the huge floor-to-ceiling glass windows are ski fields with chairlifts and -4 degree temperatures (pictured); on the other side air-conditioned malls with designer shops and eateries where you can fuel up before, after or in between runs. See: skidxb.com
2. THE GALAPAGOS: The Galapagos Islands are located on the equator but cold water currents mean you'll feel more like you're swimming off a beach in Tasmania. So if you sign up to snorkel with seals, sea turtles, manta rays, dolphins and even marine iguanas, don't forget to don a wetsuit, which most local tour companies hire out. See: galapatours.com
3. LADAKH, INDIA: From searing hot deserts and humid cities to palate-tingling spicy food, a trip to the Subcontinent is bound to send your sweat glands into overdrive, but not if you end up in Ladakh, located in the country's remote north and often referred to as the Alaska of India, where breathtaking, barren landscapes meet chilly temperatures. See: ladakh.gov.in/tourism
4. SNOW GROTTO, VIKING: You could be in the middle of the Mediterranean with temperatures north of 40 degrees in summer, but if you're exploring the region on one of Viking Cruises' fleet of near-identical ships, you will always have the Snow Grotto. Part of the ships' LivNordic Spa, it's where you can cool down in -10 degree temperatures, then heat up again in true Nordic style in the steam room. See: vikingcruises.com.au
5. CAIRNS, QLD: Layering up in tropical Cairns may sounds absurd but don't forget to take a jumper if you're signing up for an early-morning hot air balloon experience, with chilly temperatures before the break of dawn. See: hotairballooningcairns.com.au