Sunshine and snowmelt make the Swiss Alps a summer sensation.
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Relaxing on a blanket splayed out on the lush grass, I'm sipping an ice-cool bottle of pilsner, snacking on cheeses and cured smoked meats, and listening to the soothing sound of cow bells tinkling from the meadows. The sun toasts the back of my neck and the wooded mountains ahead are rousing the landscape painter in me. This is Switzerland - but not as you know it. Many Australians tend to associate this central European country with snow-drenched landscapes, freezing temperatures and apres-ski frolics, but that's only half the story.
I'm here in June, the onset of the northern summer, when the skiers and snowboarders have fled the pistes, and all that melted snow has transformed the countryside into a verdant idyll, producing a rush for uplifting activities. Scenic hikes, e-bike rides and train journeys showcase the sublime alpine vistas, as do quirky and heart-pumping options like canyoning. I'm enjoying my mini-picnic - and a well-earned breather - after trying that popular Swiss summer sport, which fuses everything from rock climbing to wild swimming, and is best done (for beginners at least) on an organised tour.
Encouraged by our Swiss and Kiwi guides, and safely secured with a harness, we began by throwing ourselves off a clifftop, rappelling 50 metres down a rugged canyon before tackling a series of challenges: leaping and ziplining into emerald pools, hauling ourselves up humongous boulders then sliding down them through rainbow-smeared waterfalls.
Canyoning flourishes in many gorge-strewn Swiss cantons, but a great springboard for it - and countless other thrills and spills - is Interlaken. Proclaimed "Europe's Adventure Capital", this town is beautifully perched, as its name suggests, between two lakes (Brienz and Thun). You can go kayaking, canoeing, windsurfing, sailing and stand-up paddleboarding on their turquoise-tinted glacial waters, with the mountainous, tree-cloaked surrounds sure to bewitch. If you're brave, and fancy a refreshing dip, you can swim freely in the lakes and there are heated lakeside lidos as well.
Interlaken is just under an hour from Swiss capital Bern by train (and two hours from Zurich). It was, in fact, the railway's arrival in the late 19th century that sparked the town's rise as a year-round resort. While you'll see snow bunnies here huddling over gluhwein and warm, gooey cheese fondues in winter, summer sees restaurant terraces abuzz with diners savouring salads and grilled lake fish such as trout paired with dry Swiss white and rosé wines. Interlaken has an excellent range of places in which to eat, drink and stay, from rustic chalet lodges that are relatively budget-friendly to the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa, which oozes Belle Epoque glamour.
Interlaken sits at a relatively modest altitude of 568 metres, but you can get much higher pretty quickly. Sign up for skydiving, tandem paragliding or hang-gliding, or board one of the mountain railways that wind up into the piste-laced Bernese Oberland (as the wider region is known). About half an hour from Interlaken, you should alight in the postcard-pretty alpine village of Grindelwald, where signposted trails and cable cars offer wondrous views of forested valleys, wildflower-tickled meadows and hulking peaks like the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Each soar about 4000 metres, their summits forever dusted in white powder.
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Now you've come this far, how about taking the Jungfraujoch railway? Departing from Kleine Scheidegg - 25 minutes from Grindelwald by train - this engineering marvel bores through the mountains and deposits you at Europe's highest station (3454 metres), where the terrace of the Sphinx Observatory promises sweeping panoramas. With the mighty alps and the Aletsch Glacier spread out before you, this may well be the wintry Switzerland of your daydreams. But remember, it's summer here, and with the long evenings - it stays light until almost 10pm in June - there's time to get back to Interlaken for a sundowner by the water. Proscht (cheers!).
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Emirates flies to Zurich from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane via Dubai. There are several daily direct trains from Zurich to Interlaken. See emirates.com; sbb.ch
Staying there: Four-star family-run Stella Hotel in Interlaken has doubles from $470. See stella-hotel.ch
Explore more: interlaken.ch; myswitzerland.com
The writer was a guest of Swiss Tourism.
Mercury rising
Five other warm experiences you can enjoy in cold places.
1. LAPLAND, FINLAND: Synonymous with Santa, this sparsely populated slice of northern Finland is a haven for outdoorsy types between June and September, when temperatures can sometimes edge above 20 degrees. Go river rafting, bear-watching or sign up for yoga in a forest. Explore more: visitfinland.com
2. PORTMEIRION, WALES: Ambling about this seaside village in the middle of the northern summer, with an ice cream, admiring the gelato-hued Italianate buildings and watching the sun glisten off the sea, you may think you're by the Mediterranean. Explore more: portmeirion.wales
3. ICELAND: The so-called "Land of Fire and Ice" is not exactly known for its balmy climate. But you're guaranteed to feel all warm inside when you're in the Blue Lagoon (pictured) or one of the dozens of other geothermal pools that dot Iceland's volcanic landscapes. Come in mid-June and there's a chance you'll feel the rays of the midnight sun on your face while you're bathing. Explore more: visiticeland.com
4. STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN: Forget Greece and Croatia, the European country with the most islands to hop around (about 267,500) is Sweden. And summer sees appetites surge for sailing, swimming and shellfish lunches on the Stockholm archipelago, a 30,000-strong cluster on the capital's doorstep. Ferries link downtown Stockholm with alluring getaways such as the Fjaderholmarna islands (30 minutes away) and Vaxholm (an hour). Explore more: visitsweden.com
5. KENT, ENGLAND: Zipping through sun-kissed countryside in an open-top car and stopping off at ripening vineyards may evoke visions of Tuscany. But we're talking about a nice summer's day in Kent, where wineries such as Chapel Down and Biddenden produce acclaimed wines. Explore more: visitkent.co.uk